NOLLEN: ice Nose Monaco (4099m)

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18/09/2012 08:43 - 18/09/2012 08:47 #1204 da Franz Rota Nodari
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Monch, 4099m: Eis Nollen (1300m / D- / 80 °)


image from from Wikimedia

There are places that have the magic inherent in them even just talking about it. One of these is, for us "south of the Alps," undoubtedly the Oberland: a word that evokes huge mountains, vast glacial expanses, walls almost hymalaiane. Of all the major peaks, a "triad" has become famous everywhere both for alpine events, which for tourism which has "colonized" the slopes and even underground! Obviously in quotes because the mountains can still give, not far from civilization, the harshness that distinguishes it. I'm talking of 'Eiger (The Ogre, famous for its famous North Wall), the Monch (AS Monaco) and Jungfrau (The Virgin). The train of the Jungfrau, with impressive tunnels inside these mountains, brings thousands of tourists a day to 3454m the Jungfraujoch. But the northern slopes, despite the windows so look to the tourists the repulsive walls, remain wild.
On the northern side of the Monch, a street that runs for years watched with much interest. A way of disarming logic. It turns out not too difficult, in short, within my reach.


image from SummitPost

After the usual various joints to organize machined as full as possible, we remain just me, Paul (Vime) and Stefano (Brozio) directly in Grindelwald. From there the little train takes us to Kleine Sarcaxxo (as Brozio says, but in reality it Scheidegg ;-)) Whence we remain a gaping time at the magnificence of the place. We cross downhill under the Eiger glacier and remount the ridge that leads to Guggihutte, a great eagle's nest perched on a balcony. The climb fouled by the last snowfall and ice encrusted is by no means trivial. The refuge is outstanding. Even more now that missing manager ;-) However we are not really alone, because there's three Spaniards on purpose to see the sunset from up here, but that absolutely will not disturb the quiet of the place. The night costs 20 Fr CH, there are wood for the stove, electricity with solar panels, soft drinks and bottles of wine. The next day remount the steep slope above the hut. Initial fears of losing the right path because of snow prove unfounded: an infinite number of great little men will overcome terraces and rocky cliffs (otherwise absolutely non-trivial) with labyrinthine path, but effective. When we came out to Monchplateau begins to dawn. In front of us the famous Nose. Paradoxically, the snow appears to decrease over here (the wind) ... We continue shipped to the ...nostrils where we bind ourselves. The climb from the tip It offers ten meters on 70-80 °, continuing on nasal septum the slope decreases until reaching the base of the front which paves much. There front is a large slope on 50-55 ° covered mostly by a convenient optimally pressed snow layer (in half-toe of the foot only). When we reach the ridge, beyond the emotion of the sublime landscape, you invest a dazzling sun. A hundred meters of the ridge and we are, after 6 hours or so, on the snowy peak. The time of consecutive images, looking for clouds that we do not find ... ;-) The descent for normal starts with a sharp crest well drawn, move to rocks smoothed by the many steps that take us with funny disarrampicata the playground of the Jungfraujoch in the midst of crowds of Indian tourists, Japanese, etc ... we went back to civilization. The train will take us to the valley ... (total of our routes: 89 € !!!)
Like every time, it reached your goal for so fixed, now they have a new, more challenging, more exciting ... and here we must go back in time. But as long as there saran valid members with which to do it is always a pleasure!

The photos:

The Kleine Scheidegg station: the Eiger North is impressive

The complicated route for Guggihutte

And the upper part of the Nollen: beautiful

It 'a little' ... encrusted a little 'time! Delicate!

And here it is the hut

That eagle's nest

The interior is superb

After pennica ... we enjoy the sunset

The Eiger from here has a "look harmless"

The bastion-encrusted that will climb the next day in the dark

The Virgin gives us ... good night

It goes down

The next day we are in front of the Nose

Almost to the "nostrils"

And go

Go Vime

Jungfrau background

Just above (note the excellent photos of Brozio ;-))

Under the "front";-)

On the forehead

The Kleine Sarcazzen by ... satellite ;-)

final slope


Perfect

Out

The Aletschgletscher: the colossus of the Alps

Cresta


The Nose from above ...

Eiger

Our distant hut

downhill

balancing acts


Going down

Swiss small picture (Wetterhorn)

From the valley road our climb gives the best of himself: arrivederci!
Last edit: 18 / 09 / 2012 08: 47 by Franz Rota Nodari.

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18/09/2012 12:28 #1205 da Vareno Boreatti
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Just a nice trip! Congratulations for having found and for photos. Vareno Boreatti

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18/09/2012 12:48 #1207 da Raffaele Morandini
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Franz Bravo! ... You're doing the most beautiful interpretations of 4000.

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