North Lenzspitze and Crossing to Nadelhorn: Apr 18 07

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07/05/2007 14:48 #81 da Franz Rota Nodari
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Yay began climbing season, and big. It was more than a month that Ganja pressava to start spicozzare and abandon ski touring, which is not the practice that most prefer ...

E 'Tuesday, we are in Saas Fee, trees loaded backpacks are the 13 and our eyes are directed only to her: the north wall of Lenzspitze 4291m.
In 4 hours we reach the Mischabelhütte: the climb is strenuous, but the snow does not stop there and just to 200 meters shall suffer for the late hour and subsidence.
Local winter All'accoglientissimo there will also be two very friendly Swiss youngsters. The view overlooking Saas is incredible. The stove, the light with the solar panels, all wooden interior and modern windows make the camp a great place to spend the evening and night.
The next day in the light of the front go up to the glacier, and now we are at the dawn rimaye (the crevasse). After finding the best passing and mountaineering expertise in Ganja we overcome it all over the edge and continue diagonally to "get it" actually in the wall. Following a "smart" line we can make the most of the hard ice snow. Our 6 "awls" enter that is a pleasure ;-). Only an offline variant obliges us to use 5 / 6 screws, but back on the right path we proceed sent. The two Swiss, initially disoriented (according to them, is the first North!) Surpass us and "fly" upwards. Once in the ridge, you change the material and continue to the endless succession of towers and pippoli with doubles and ascents (III +). At the summit of the NADELHORN 4340m, it is now late and we are temporarily enveloped by clouds. Downhill ample glimpses to find the way down the Windjoch. When we arrive at the Refuge we take very little to decide to spend another night there. We give the bottom to the latest provisions and all to bed.
The next day, with the utmost calm on a fantastic day accompanied by mountain goats, we begin the long descent, pay for the accomplished by planning excessively uphill climbs: we know that every time it is so.
Once in Sass Fee and cambiatici, worthy final in a restau Saas Grund in this hot sun as on a hot July day? But you know the Global Warming !!!!


PS: A big thank you to MARINOROMA for precious info that was able to track down for me ... to make good!

But now let the pictures speak:

The route leading to Mischabelhütte. Behind the pyramid of Lenzspitze and the slide N.


Increasingly alienated from Saas


Laggin and Weissmies


Taschorn, Dom, Lenz


Sunrise on Lagginhorn


The wall turns pink


delicate passages through rocks, snow and ice


'' Convenient "stop


Our friendly members


And on ole!


Brrrrrrrr? Turning back




Endless towers and towers


Miiiiiii, do not spend more!










The line followed is lost in the mists


Meetings the following day

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07/05/2007 14:49 #82 da Franz Rota Nodari
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07/05/2007 14:52 #83 da Franz Rota Nodari
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Repeated by 2 bling, enticed friends from my report ...

Sunday 29 April.
Here are the new cond:

1 / 3 wall was perfect: they sank as much as allowed to have
1 good balance and to proceed quickly;
others 2 / 3 were alive or ice (or almost) or 1 thin layer of snow
that covered ice that also broke the 2 ^ piccozzata.

here and there was 1 little to glimpse the way. The ridge is excellent: the
Snow (where there was) aiutaava just to go fast +


With the new snowfall, however, the situation should have changed a bit ...

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