Crest of Brouillard, Aig. du Jardin and Grande Rocheuse

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12/08/2008 14:13 #352 da Flavio melindo
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The 2 and 3 last August our partner Daniela Formica, in Alberto Cheraz company, Dario Vilella and Loris Buzzi, has made the climb to Mont Blanc for the whole crest of Brouillard, starting from Lake Combal and bypassing P. Baretti, M. Brouillard and Luigi Amedeo Peak with descent to Gouter.
The 10 August, with Mathieu Vallée, Alberto Cheraz and Dario Villella, climbed the Aiguille du Jardin for the crest of the Jardin, with crossing the Great Rocheuse and off the couloir Whymper.
Of these two companies he has given us a brief report, which we publish below.


Crest of Brouillard

Parties from Lake Combal to h 9.30, we crossed the Miage and embarked on the first snowy gully to the right from the end of the ridge; 300 meters higher, on easy but very treacherous, we have climbed over the orographic right rib, going down in the upper part of another parallel gully, whose bedrock, solid enough, we followed up to the main ridge, reaching the h 13 at an altitude of about 2900 (though I think it's better to go directly from the base of the ridge, following the relation of Pier Mattiel).
From here, always on the ridge with some step up pretty rock solid, never more than the second-third; then the endless crossing of the Aiguilles Rouges, past all the side Miage, and, over the Col du Brouillard, increasingly soft ground.
On the hill there are good places to camp out, but we preferred to go up as much as possible, stopping at h 19 3600 to share, at a small snowfield.
The next day, leaving at h 7, we reached Punta Baretti to 8,30, M. Brouillard to 9,30 and the Col Emile Rey to 10.
To 10,30 we attacked the channel, based just meters below the Colle Rey, goes up the east slope of the Peak Luigi Amedeo; Due to the presence of snow and ice rotten to its right edge where usually it goes back, we had to climb placconate smoother and wet in the left and in the center of the channel, which we have committed for a couple of hours; also sfondosa upper slopes of snow has somewhat slowed us: we arrived on top of the peak to 15.
From here on, a very long ups and downs of the ridge, furniture and delicate soils, thin snowy ridges, we were busy for hours: on top of the Mont Blanc to 20.
So fast descent to Gouter refuge arriving at 21,30.
In summary: I was expecting a better soil, more solid and entertaining rock; instead, with the exception of the base of Peak L. Amedeo, the ridge is one pile of furniture and hazardous stones, which oblige to move with extreme care and continuous concentration; on the other hand it is an itinerary in a beautiful setting, with spectacular perspective on the most isolated and wild slopes of the massif; the isolation, the continuous research of the transition, the need to move independently for lack of support points and the consequent need to camp out in harsh conditions, make it a way of the past, offering an exciting full immersion in 'high-altitude environment. An experience that I recommend to do!

Aig. Du Jardin and Grande Rocheuse

Departure from Couvercle refuge, where breakfast in the streets slope Verte is scheduled at midnight, to 00,40 (too early, you get to the rock, where the path is not very clear in the dark, after about two and half hours, well before the light, in the absence of the moon).
The terminal is a bit 'problematic: the switch to the right, passing a low wall, however not in ice, of three to four meters (not need two gears, but better to have a technique ice ax).
On the rocky part of the route to the secondary SE ridge mentioned in the Guide Vallot, the route is not required; However, better to stay in a fireplace a little 'tight, where the rock is solid, albeit a bit' more difficult: not only more secure, it offers a pleasant climbing, ever more challenging fourth sup.
After the policeman placed on the secondary ridge of before, is the most original passage, we sherzosamente called "worm" (or better, for some, "belly", according to the technique used by each to overcome ... .). This is indeed a singular oblique fireplace topped by a low roof, so tight that there was no way to pass with backpackers: everyone, including the first climber, we had to go without a backpack, and then the same recupare separately .
The dividing ridge, the party begins in mixed route, the most exciting: the snowy ridges are very sharp and aerial crossings and delicate rock; on the other hand, the view on the massif from here on out is breathtaking; But better not to spend too much time to admire it, if you do not firmly believe in balance: the slopes below are dizzying! From this point of view, the crossing of the hill Armand Charlet offers perhaps the most exciting part of the climb to the smallness of the snowy ridge and the perspective on the north and south slides.
For the descent we opted for the double of the couloir Whymper: despite 17 fell, we felt that way to be able to go down much faster than from the Moine ridge. The anchors are placed so that they are almost always protected from falling rocks, which, however, view the temperature not too high, were not numerous, however, they have only affected the right side bank of the gully. Of course the lower part of the couloir is now free of snow, so you must be very careful not to move rocks falling in double or pulling ropes. For the descent, in four, in each case we used the beauty of almost four hours; the strings that have opted for the crest of the Moine on the other hand have been slower abundantly.
the overall rise time: return to the hut, just under 16 hours.
To quote the Vallot Guide, issue a summary of a "splendid itinerary, varied, very interesting, which has a beautiful rock climbing ....... and beautiful high mountain terrain. It 'comparable as beauty and interest , the ridge Sans Nom. Reserve superb views. "
Very true, try it!

Daniela Formica

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27/08/2008 14:09 #360 da Franz Rota Nodari
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That woman !!! : Shock:: shock:: shock:

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