The integral Peuterey

The integral Peuterey is long ridge starting from V. Veny, salt on top of AIG. Noire de Peuterey, down from its north face to the Brèche des Dames Anglaises, touches the Bivouac Craven, salt to the three tips of AIG. White de Peuterey, descends to the Col de Peuterey, rooms at the Grand Pilier d'Angle and then to the summit of Mont Blanc: a climb of great commitment.
The following report Gianni Predan, after having lived in 2000, there tells it; The gladly we publish, thinking that might be of interest to many of our members.
(The Editors)


In June last year (2000, ed) I found myself working with Pier Mattiel to Giaglione ferrata in Val di Susa. After a few days spent together, he comes out with: "Are you interested in 1'integrale Peuterey this summer?". "It scares me too the descent of the northern Noire" I reply right away. "But there is more the descent on the north, they are double the aid on the west and then cut into the channel of the south of the Dames des Anglais Brèche". "If so, you may think, but you know her?". "No, but I talked to Ivan who explained everything to me."

Since then 1'idea began to develop slowly, one day we were discussing the period and the best conditions for the ascent, another day I wore the Vallot guide and during the break we looked at the crossing of the "Dames des Anglais" as erroneously continued to call them Pier, on other occasions we considered the details of equipment, the food, and the times, while the good season approached.
It would have been the first ascent made together, we instinctively mutual trust; I also liked was his idea to climb the east ridge Noire from the south instead, to gain time, a sign of the project realism.
Pier also had an extra motivation: he worthily concluded the official collection of the peaks of 4000 m. Alpine (1'Aig. Blanche and the Pilier d'Angle were the only two still missing); therefore could not miss this climb his usual companion collection, Gianni, a Monza, mountaineering instructor, I did not know yet.
After the first of July we have neither seen nor heard, each busy with his commitments, then they started the phone calls, both attentive to the conditions and the weather, hoping not to run into a summer like that of the previous year .. when it finally seems that things are putting good comes, confirming the news that two guides Coumayeur, Arnaud Clavel and Matteo Pellin 1'hanno just climb in record time.
It's time: the socio Pier is sent back overnight from the Dolomites, at the meeting at the exit of Ivrea, Monday August at 14 13, is renamed Spirit, so as not to have two Gianni roped.
We spend more than an hour on a lawn Val Veny to decide the common things to be taken; otherwise some discussion and then each of her head.
We take the climb to Borelli with the necessary calm although the weak local rainfall forecast for today is right over our heads; only on the final lawn, fed up with wet, increase 1'andatura to go to photograph 1'arcobaleno being sheltered.
We find that the shelter is run by three nice guys; we've taken everything, but we decide to gustarci last real pasta before starting the diet of pre-packaged foods.
Today a consortium of Greeks has quickly climbed the south ridge of the Noire 1'intenzione continuing to 1'integrale, while still on the south ridge is preparing to bivouac a consortium, father and son, playing in the morning from the Val Veny.
With us at the shelter there are two Ligurian and driving with a Swiss customer, all for the southern ridge of the Noire; Ligurian ask in vain to us an outline on the east ridge, the Bernese guide however has already made 1'integrale and can give us valuable information on the most obscure points.
We go to bed with a beautiful mess in the head; a few hours later we find ourselves at breakfast in a thoughtful silence along with the other two ropes.
The identification of the climb the east ridge is not easy, and right away we need to discuss before being in agreement. As the sun eats the hours go up quite convinced until we have to tie ourselves to a diagonal stroke on the side Brenva rock pretty nasty certainly out on, then continue with slight uncertainty until a new critical point, where I tie back to Pier and Spirit for a pitch on unstable rocks that brings us finally to the easy stretch below the summit. I watch from time to time the rock labyrinth that is growing below us, admired for the south climbers who succeed sometimes in the day to find his way trough, the guides maybe taking a tired customer.
Only at the top of the clock response wonder: the 13, we are a bit 'disappointed but rather than go down the path just done we rush into the void between the wall and the north west. No split of the aid, but correspond to the description made to us by the Swiss guide; But we forget that he also told us "if you find a good anchorage after 20 or 30 m. stop and take a short double "and already the second twin, long presumptuously, our strings fit together during recovery.
Date back climbing, secured from below with the open string, to retrieve the ropes and redo half double on an anchor around a rock badly stuck (someone else has already had our problem).
After a while another hitch: you can not retrieve the strings despite the care that I put in place the node out of the corner, pull the yellow, pull the black, yellow retires, withdraws the black, when at last we can get back in possession of our ropes, the black has sheared off sleeve with a few meters from the junction; we reverse the leader in the junction giving up temporarily (with a knot) to use the meters of rope under the scamiciatura.
We continue to fall into a kind of funnel to the bottom presents us with icicles and water, and to impose Spirit 1'abbandono dell'autoassicurazione to speed up the descent. When we go out and we cross towards the south couloir Brèche, the voltage decreases and Pier also it gives pause for important bodily functions. We arrive at the end of doubles in 14 4 hours, once again allowed from Buscaini guide.
In the ascent to the Dames Anglaises, Spirit who in the morning could not send down the snacks provided as the only daytime food, it begins to slow down a bit 'rhythm; thankfully it is little, because contrary to the advice of the Swiss decide for low crossing: other 5 double to reach the couloir of the north brèche. Under 1'ultimo anchor wedged find a new rope (maybe the Greeks); that things are beginning to turn in the right direction?
We go up the couloir proceeding together, linked to 100 m. between the first and 1'ultimo of roped with some reference positioned from time to time, with the additional weight of a new rope in the backpack; we find no traces of recent, it seems to us that the Greeks have fallen on Freney.
we do not hurry because today's stage has become a natural end to Craven: sleeping bags thus become a luxurious burden (to say nothing of bulky Pier and Spirit mats). We get there with enough light to take the latest photos.
We have agreed to do to enliven the evening with a home cooked meal go down to brèche to take a borsata snow, then we return to a zainata, whenever Spirit will not let me go without 1'esagerata hurry to tie me up and cheer me up. We spent the evening at cuddle with groceries best that we brought and we fill liquid and plastic bottles for 1'indomani. When we decide to go to the lyophilized, Pier one has enough Spirit and discovering that it is rice and chicken currry waiver disgusted; I sacrifice myself for not throwing the stuff brought right up here and cooked with love.
The night is once again too small for us, starts fiddling with the stove while my companions even pretend to doze; after an hour of preparation we force ourselves to leave the bivouac in the light of the full moon and our head lamps. The budget for the Craven has been enhanced with a damaged cord, a packet of freeze-dried food and half the Spirit bubble wrap mat.
We pass the first part, a bad across the broken rocks, with the disadvantage of darkness and first light we are on the ledges Schneider to discuss whether we should go above or below the "thin gendarme", Pier does not give up, Spirit is related to him to which I adjust, then I discover that went well anyway.
The rest of AIG rose. Blanche is nice and fast, I prefer to proceed untied freeing occasionally their rope from getting caught.
The first summit of White, the south, leaves us spellbound, cross along a spectacular crest until the center point and then to the north.
Look worried 1'ultimo of the climb, the view in front of always impresses a bit 'and 1'idea to cut towards the Col Eccles whale for a while, but then we go down to Col Peuterey with 4-5 doubles.
Stopping short, and birth head to the Grand Pilier d'Angle; past the end we begin Mixed tract with the usual debates whether to go left or right, at the end I go up next to them untied ranging from preserves, the crest of the Pilier is even more beautiful than that of Blanche.
From the top of the Pilier while we savor the majesty of our position before the last effort, we see a helicopter intervention of the Relief on the north east wall below us.
To address the remaining climb to the White Courmayeur squeeze the remaining energies of the consortium, the trace of the two guides of Courmayeur is visible again and Pier head is in charge of ribatterla, I close my taking my heavy things, Spirit caught in the middle does not have to slow down. We begin wearily sweating under the blazing sun but as soon as we take 1'aria from the west, that there's freezing hands in wet gloves, the pace increasing returns; Spirit, though half as fast yesterday, gives the best of himself, blowing like a bellows now that he has discovered the miracle that can make breathing.
About 150 m. below the summit of Courmayeur White we find a long tangle of red lanyard that takes us to the exit on the top side of one of the frames. We are alone, pulls fresh air, a quick set up on the material, we withdraw the ropes in the bags and before we 18 the world below us.
Bosses comes from a female roped batch to the morning train from 9 the Nid d'Aigle, try a bit 'of shelter in a snow cave already dug half: Pier try to light a fire with leaves of the relationship that has accompanied us throughout the climb, the flame of freedom in the air atop brings our thinking friend Robi Perucca that only a few days ago has left us, at this time we strongly feel his closeness.
Begin to go down, racing, the Spirit off track crampons make socket when turning Pier sees him descend cautiously upstream face insults him almost shouting to stay in the piston. The descent is rapid, the shoulder Maudit we expect, because to do a double, then off again race.
The shoulder of Tacul we still expect, the wind makes us feel a bit 'cold as the sun is disappearing behind an orange horizon.
Come to the shelter of Cosmiques dribs and drabs which is now dark, we place a brief phone call home, the latest gossip relaxed in front of a huge bowl of 'soupe' hot.
The next day when we get up comfortably in 7, we find some Italian guides: Roberto Giovanetto, Giovanni and Andrea Bassanini Plat already returned to the horrible weather, no fog, wind and snow.
After breakfast, as the eggs from the Midi all'Hehlbronner are stationary, we go blithely walk to Turin; down by cable car in La Palud we call with their cell phone Ivan Negro feeds us just went down and brings us back to the car we left for Val Veny long time ago ...
Our journey at a glance: 15 hours from Borelli to Craven, 16 hours from Craven to Cosmiques, about 3500 m uphill, downhill 2300 (partly on foot, the rest with 25 double) and a little 'adventure that still You can live in the Alps.