The Big Book of 4000

normal and classic routes


   The Big Book of 4000 (Cover)

Authors: Marco Romelli e Valentino Cividini

Publisher: Idea Mountain Publishing and Mountaineering - Piazzola sul Brenta (PD)

First Edition: June 2015

Format: cm 15x21 - 415 pages - Paperback - Illustrations: Color photos and data sheets


Per fans of the highest Alpine peaks, one written by Marco Romelli e Valentino Cividini (Club member 4000) Is a kind of "dream book." It is a guide dedicated to 4000 of the Alps, which, as pointed out in the preface Rat Luciano (co-founder of Club 4000), It differs from the other publications of the genre, because it takes into account all four alpine 82 list UIAA. The Big Book of 4000 It takes on the tones of the "treaty", as each mountain provides a wealth of information, which go beyond simple technical reports for ascension. Each top is introduced by historical notes (first climbers, etc.) geographic, as well as useful indications of logistics. The book included some advertising of mountain guides and shelters, but these are far from being inconvenient, because from a certain end point of view to complete the corollary of information to deal with the mountains you want. For each of 82 peaks are described, in addition to the normal route, some alternatives represented by classic routes, often more beautiful and less frequented normal. Among these "alternative", maybe it was worth add Biancograt (only mentioned in the book), known as the "stairway from heaven" which the Swiss side, through Pizzo Bianco, leads to the summit of Bernina (a small omission that might find remedy in a next edition of this guide to 4000). The purely technical side is very accurate and exhaustive, formed by accurate reports, from cards that indicates the difficulty, the unevenness, the support points and the characteristics of the soil, as well as the material needed for the climb. Unique about this book is an indication of the "favorable conditions" in which the authors express their informed opinion, recommending the perfect time to make the climb. A judgment based on direct experience, which takes into account the morphological characteristics of the mountain, as well as weather. They are very useful also sketches, and photographs, with the route path shown in red. This important iconographic component is added at early maps of the area and the remarkable camera kit. These images are an added value to the book, which stimulates the reader to power its "high altitude dreams."


Raffaele Morandini

(October 2015)