Straight to Droites (4000 m) with bivouac

06/08/2012 11:38 - 06/08/2012 11:41 #1119 da Franz Rota Nodari

In red rose on Friday, in magenta the place to bivouac, in green the climb to the summit and the descent in blue. much drier than now photos, taken by SummitPost

The approach to this mountain time it's different. After essersela let slip from the north to the conditions "never good" after essersela let slip to approach ski area in late March (there for the Jardin) this time you decide for a "straight" from the valley. The forecast Friday without a good evening / night-time; Saturday good morning, afternoon thunderstorms. So let's start with bivouac material from the Montenvers station I decided to go up to where the hardships and conditions permit, to have advantage on the following morning. Ale with me, for his first time in the basin of Talèfre. His backpack is scary, but it will not give a moment. Joints directly on the basin of the glacier after the steep, has famously become known, railway, much more comfortable than going up to Couvercle shelter of clouds crowding the mountains. We know the weather, but they can not worry about that. Under the slope of the Col des Droites the route is clear and it seems much less rocky than what we thought. We continue with more and calm, making several breaks to drink and eat. When we begin to climb on snow, according to the program it is no longer warm and the progression is going well. Only thing we are immersed in the fog. Only around sunset everything opens behind giving unimaginable emotions. The full moon lights our way. From snow we pass to the rock and the Joint to overcome a fun mix jump. Past steep slopes (50 °) and we find a group of rocks in the snow that is right for us. We will drop anchor and here we are in the bags with the stars to give us good night. The next day, despite a slightly annoying breeze, so deeply asleep you do not hear the alarm clock and only Ale wakes me warning me that it is already clear ... Cabbage was so well ;-) Ready go! Hot tea and fingers, and we are moving: little snow and here we are on the rocky end. Comes the sun by the side of Courtes: what a day! Initially on unstable rocks, then gradually as it climbs on beautiful blocconi excellent granite steps at times slightly athletic earn meters, a little 'preserved, a little' to pull. The residual ice still gives even the Mixed steps to deal with two ice axes. Once at the summit slope we are headed to the summit with great satisfaction. The clouds are coming, but not yet concern. The temperature is far from tropical, to Nero's face ... We go down now on the SW side with the series of doubles that are used coming from Lagarde in spring. The first stretch is not very comfortable (double not always regular and doubts about the anchors position), but then we speed and everything takes on a good pace. Toward the base of the channel a couple of Top discharges make us realize that it's time to sneak away. Moreover, the slope of the Courtes, as witnessed by Roby, was not so much safer. After the crevasse with a good jump, we continue through the maze of crevasses of the glacier Talèfre. But when we are on the moraine we rages the storm announced that we saw coming from the White. Under a rock waiting to ease. Down by the railroad with these storms that follow it seems a stupid and least dangerous thing. so we opt for the night at Couvercle. The next day, still under water, we go down on the Mer de Glace noting the gradual snow on the high peaks for these cold perturbations.
A really great climb with a great partner proved rise to the occasion. As someone says the 4000 lower, but not the easiest ...

But here are the pictures:

Col des Jorasses with troubled glacier of Leschaux and Hoods and Dome de Rochefort

On the glacier Talèfre

That's our goal with the downhill slope

And here is the slope of the Col des Droites, in common with the normal of Courtes

And our path to the bivouac on the last snowy stretch 3600m

The rocky stretch summit: "key" part of the ascent. The rising line is rather free. We say that if you find something beyond the III + you are out on ... ;-)

The beautiful Punta Isabella, classic ski mountaineering

Annoying and disturbing mists

Ale smiling

But suddenly by magic everything opens as if by magic

, We have more energy to go on, but we bind ourselves

Good morning, good morning, my name is Francesco, ...

Hot or not warm ... it starts off well


However, the "fish" on White is usually bad omen weather ...

magnificent Jorasses

Snow and rock

pretty steep

A nice fireplace with an ice mushroom to deal with spades

Courtes and combin

beautiful passes

towers summit

On the snow

It is shortly

Go Ale!

Just the last block ... well ... that's the real peak; - *

Towards the Verte ... better to go

The uphill slope with the final snowy stretch



The sky opens again

On the steep glacier Talèfre


Another camp here waiting for me to stop? Nooooo ... this time better shelter
Last edit: 06 / 08 / 2012 11: 41 by Franz Rota Nodari.

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10/08/2012 17:20 #1127 da Raffaele Morandini
Dear Franz,
First of all congratulations for the beautiful photo essay, then a good for the climb, complete with a campfire. Make un'alpinismo of yesteryear!

As I wrote in another post, I have no knowledge of that area and therefore the photos have given me an idea of ​​the place ... beautiful and wild.


PS I'll write later for info e-mail on Lenzspitze and just have a little 'more time will answer to your own post about the trip to California ... that made me re-open the drawer of memories. Hello!

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