Benvenuto, Guest
Username: Password: Remember
  • Page:
  • 1

TOPIC: Aig.LESCHAUX from Gervasutti: another autumn gift

Aig.LESCHAUX from Gervasutti: another autumn gift 23 / 10 / 2013 09: 14 #1340

Aiguille de Leschaux, 3759m. Val Ferret for Bivouac Gervasutti, AD +

Beautiful photo di Antonio Giani Of SummitPost

Way back in the fall of 2005, on the occasion of the ascent to Mont Dolent from Fiorio bivouac , I was struck by the wild mountains that make up this extension to the NE of the Monte Bianco, over the Grandes Jorasses. I made a mental tornarvici: there were beautiful possibilities, the Triolet, the Leschaux, les Petites Jorasses. Also in 2005 then, during the course of a SGL to Rifugio Bonatti The small light on continuously in the high valley of Fréboudze attracted my curiosity and fascinated me. I asked an outline of a guide who was with us and found out that it was the Bivouac Gervasutti, I found a place that I would always be in the following seasons ronzata head. Years passed, and instead of bivacchetto wood and sheet metal which was the first hut , It was placed one of the bivouacs most technological of the Alps : A futuristic structure with every comfort (who also had some criticism from the purists of the classic style), but that I was sure would not take off charm to these remote places. One more reason to go there anyway to visit.

Two years ago "from behind" at the point were we approached the summit with the intention to climb the Gully W Col des Petites Jorasses from the Refuge de Leschaux But excessive snow and bad conditions of the glacier had rejected us.
www.on-ice.it/onice/viewtopic.php?p=147328
On this side of the picture gully , The top of Leschaux is awesome!


After so many years that I postponed this trip and that I proposed to Mara, finally gets the opportunity to go and do it. The initial goal was a classic gully (probably in good condition) in the basin of Geant, but with the aggregation of Mattia and Marco (Romelli) more interested in a wild ride that to a gully from "playground", the decision is soon Jack. To anticipate the Sunday bad weather, we leave Friday for the Val Ferret. The snowfall of recent days have made some significant accumulations at high altitude, but we trust in the heat that is immediately followed by the adjustment and transformation of the snow. Going up the valley of Fréboudze up to 2200 m (after the steep rocky stretch equipped with fixed ropes) seems that expectations are met, so much so that we have also left the snowshoes in the car. The setting is sublime. The Grandes Jorasses with their mighty walls East and Tronchey crest continuously attract us to him. Higher we get the more we realize that our assessments were incorrect. In many places we'll break up the groin, in the midst of a nasty maze of rocks. We arrive at the bivouac much later than expected with a warm more and more decided. The last part is equipped with a fixed rope, but rather delicate. When we see the bivouac tick we can not help but be amazed. It has a unique look that in some respects mal fits into the context of these areas that have the "rocks that smell of history." When we cross the threshold, however, mindful of cramped, dirty holes, crumbling, soon ... we change opinion. A beautiful stained glass window shows the valley below us. However, expectations about the bivouac comfort are soon disappointed: the solar panels, even though they are only half covered by snow, do not give energy or lighting, or the computer, or radio, and either the electric plate. Luckily we had we brought our stove for safety.
Paradoxically, it was more efficient luminary always on the past years to show the way to the lost climbers, rather than the futuristic technology of today. This is a warning and reflection ...
No time to rest: see the abundant snow, if we want to be successful tomorrow we have to go to trace. That's how me and Mara start on the rocks above the camp and reach the glacier. The snow is abundant and obliges us to proceed a little 'bent also using the support of hands for not break too. After an hour we overcome the first flight of the glacier that allows us to see the rocky ramparts, which represents the key point of dell'indomani climb. Back at camp we can have dinner. Meanwhile, the outside instead of coming darkness seems to lighten: the full moon has risen and the glacier below us produces a blinding glare. To 4, in three (Mattia will make a relaxing day at the bivouac) following our comfortable tracks in a surreal atmosphere we climb up to the point reached the previous evening. From here the snow begins to wear fine apart from some stretch. The glacier, usually troubled, is covered by an excellent layer of snow and only a bridge (however well solid) makes us pay more attention. We arrive at the base of the crag that is still dark. Gripping the rock delivery equipment to climb a series of corners (II-III), plates and fun goulottine that lead to easy upper slopes, but delicate for not always perfect snow. Joints to the outstanding glacier Jorasses before us light to dawn. The continuation is still tiring up the hill below the rocky cliff top, where comes the sun. scary frames on the side of Dalmazzi make the environment particularly impressive. Left the backpacks we overcome the 60 meters of mixed and rock coming to the left of the top. Below us the abyss of Leschaux glacier. From here literally riding the plane we reach the crest of the thread on the top where there is a stop for fallen. A tower, set back from the main ridge to the N and that seems higher than the others, attracts my attention. With a few athletic and air passages will we tread one by one the pointed top. Two double by 30m, the snow and we now crush the bastion where equip 4 double of spikes to reach the doubles already equipped 2 we settle comfortably at the base. Reached above the camp we find the material left to us by Mattia who began the descent and without passing by that we begin our last ordeal: the snow, sometimes bearing on the old tracks, hides huge holes in the rocks. Sometimes we go down on her butt also avoid us a few meters down the track precarious. When we get to the machine by Mattia in less than no time the sky is white and appears wrapped in dense threatening clouds: bad weather announced arrived, but now we live in the memories of this wonderful day that demonstrated once again as well a normal route on White is never a walk. Great trip satisfaction. And good baptism, which has long rimandavamo, to rope with Marco ... see you next!

My detailed report here: www.on-ice.it/onice/onice_view_report.php?type=4&id=4440

Marco's report on its website: romelli-marco-illustrazione.blogspot.it/...lle-de-leschaux.html

Here are the pictures:

Rocks and plants ... The sharp Noire.

The valley of Fréboudze with les Grandes Jorasses

What a vision!

Symbols unequivocal ... ;-)

Much snow to plot

And finally here it is on the hill ...
Old Gervasutti: images.summitpost.org/medium/223335.jpg
New Gervasutti: www.bivaccogervasutti.com/

Climbing to get there

Extralusso

You go to trace the rise of tomorrow

Towards the circus of Leschaux

Cuckoo...

It's like being on a ship ... or astro-ship ;-)

Full moon as it was day

Outstanding Glass window (by Mattia)

Franza Opa Style, the goulottina

on the ramparts

Mattia controls us from the bivouac ...

Mammoth. If I think of Tito, Julia and Gibe on GrouchoMarx !!! Help!!!
www.up-climbing.com/it/articoli/alpinism...orasses-groucho-marx

WOW

Toward the goal

Turning ... Patagonian
Photo by Romelli
romelli-marco-illustrazione.blogspot.it/

Alba

The headframe summit

Environment and background

pleasant hill

Overview of Leschaux Glacier

On the summit ridge

At the turn of the ridge

Superba!
Photo by Romelli
romelli-marco-illustrazione.blogspot.it/

That tower there on your left ... Is he taller ???

In 4 steps you go to see ...

It seems higher ;-)

Go down

Freeride paradise?

Double on the ramparts

Goodbye?

Nestled?

The route from the opposite side.
Also from SummitPost

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Last modified: by Franz Rota Nodari.

Re: Aig.LESCHAUX from GERVASUTTI: another autumnal gift 24 / 10 / 2013 18: 49 #1341

Beautiful images, as always!
Without this season, the Aig. de Leschaux is presented in a very different way from how I remembered. I had made in the summer of 1963 (50 years, how time flies!), Of course only with shoulder and no double insurance. I remember in particular a step a little 'gentle on the rock barrier and above all an infinite number of small crevices to jump during the descent.
There were no fixed ropes, but in return the glacier was much thicker and rocks in the camp were taking higher, surpassing jump with a wide rift between ice and rock.
About bivouac and the failures of the electrical equipment, it should be noted that the solar panels are applied on the roof, I saw to be completely covered by snow. Under these conditions the small vertical panel mounted under the bivouac (recovered from the old hut) is not able to charge the batteries that power all the technological gadgets.
(Personally, I was convinced that, given the elliptical section of the camp, the snow would slip away; something that does not happen, as you can see from the attached photos, taken last winter).
It 'the first implementation of this type, some problems are inevitable! You should never do things for the first time ... ;)




The bivouac Gervasutti winter 2013
attachments:

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Last modified: by Flavio melindo.

Re: Aig.LESCHAUX from GERVASUTTI: another autumnal gift 25 / 10 / 2013 14: 39 #1342

Flavio Melindo wrote: Beautiful images as always!
Made this season, the Aig. de Leschaux is in a very different way from how I remembered it. I had made in the summer of 1963 (50 years, how time flies!)Of course only with the shoulder and no double insurance. I remember in particular a step a little 'gentle on the rock barrier and above an infinity of small crevices to jump during the descent.
There were no fixed ropes, but in return the glacier was much thicker and rocks in the camp were taking higher, surpassing jump with a wide rift between ice and rock.

Well ... I would say that it was no different for the season ... but for the year!
Excellent vintage, congratulations !!!
I guess then yes it was a PD !!!!

Flavio Melindo wrote: Speaking of camp, and the inoperability of electrical equipment, it should be noted that the solar panels are applied on the roof, I saw to be completely covered by snow. Under these conditions the small vertical panel mounted under the bivouac (recovered from the old hut) is not able to charge the batteries that power all the technological gadgets.
(Personally, I was convinced that, given the elliptical section of the camp, the snow would slip away; something that does not happen, as you can see from the attached photos, taken last winter).
It 'the first implementation of this type, some problems are inevitable! You should never do things for the first time ... ;)

Ah well ... we just wondered whether other panels were sufficient to ensure sufficient energy and especially if they were in series or parallel to those on the roof (which we have vainly tried to melt the snow).
Ciaoooo

PS: would as always nice historical pictures of the climb by comparison ...

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Re: Aig.LESCHAUX from GERVASUTTI: another autumnal gift 26 / 10 / 2013 09: 21 #1343

Unfortunately in that hill I had the photo machine (and even some food, which is even worse ...). But you can see the state of the glaciers from the attached picture (Slide comes from a friend, photographed and printed by me in BN), taken two days later, the 7 / 8 / 1963, going up to the Col de Triolet. A more direct comparison can be made with the other two pictures that reflect the rocky islet of bivouac. Gervasutti in September 1985 and 2011 in July (during the dismantling of the old hut.




Overcoming the crevasse of the Triolet glacier terminal



The cap. Gervasutti - September 1985



The cap. Gervasutti - August 2011
attachments:

Please Log in to join the conversation.

  • Page:
  • 1
Time to create page: 0.348 seconds
Powered by Kunena Forum