Red horn ZINAL: a memorable journey

17/08/2011 12:38 #956 da Franz Rota Nodari
Zinalrothorn, 4221m:
Rothorngrat, SW ridge, D / 450m / IV-V ----> N ridge, AD + / III +

(From: )

After two weeks of sea, returning to the share could not be "painless" ... however you could also choose a trip a bit 'more "quiet" ;-). I remember Fabrizio report that spoke of "drudgery Valais" and a return to the car at night! Already the ascent to Cabane du Mountet It has its "why." They are almost 4 hours with a remarkable development. But once a little 'come to heaven you feel: a hut where you can still feel the taste of the past. Dinner is also excellent as the kindness of the owners. I'm with Denis for our first 4000 together: the Zinalrothorn. A peak that was long in my sights, but I expected the right conditions in order to carry out the complete crossing that had a reputation for elegance and super rock. The day in which saliam the shelter, good announced, will prove to be far from stable and uphill take well to the rain. The next morning the sky is covered by storm clouds, 'but it was not to be beautiful?!> We trust, however, that only defines a local "Nuages ​​du beau temp" and in fact it arrived near the glacier the view of the surrounding mountains is spectacular and the clear sky. We reach the collar 3850m, where apart from the SW ridge through a great snowy gully, with a bright sun, but a strong wind fastidiosetto. We leave for the great ride past a tooth after another with steps continuous IV of great granite wrinkled and mostly dry: in case of snow or verglass phenomena here have fun little ... After also the key step (V) we rejoin the street normal at the Gabel and Biner plaque. Some nuvolaglia annoys the final part of the climb, but at the top there are still given away excellent views. Maximum is the satisfaction, but we can not relax too much: the descent is far from trivial. The first stretch is on sharp ridge of snow, but with great plague. Once at Bosse with two doubles 25m reach other two ropes (a Italian and a British) ahead of us. We continue now with a little 'slowed from double and narrow places that characterize the ridge: the bourrique, A part of the ridge to go astride and the famous rasoir, An aesthetic blade to overcome with espostissimo step. Joints all'affilata snowy ridge, the descent to the refuge, whence we arrive at night, the time is now, immersed in the silence of the mountain, in which rethink the intense day. The next day, back to life in the valley towards Zinal, we come right to the car in time to avoid the rain. Thanks to Denis who believed in "my" trip and it proved a great climbing partner even at high altitude. And as suggested Michael, to which I want to dedicate this climb, in the year of the unification of Italy Tricolore 150esimo it is completed: Blanche Verte + + Rot ;-)!

But here are the pictures:

Since the beginning of the Val d'Annivier we see our destination already

And here it is the north ridge that will travel downhill with the characteristic gendarmes

Meetings in the ascent to the refuge

Towards the hut, in the kingdom of ice

The Zinalrothorn with the SW ridge to the right and the left N

The Obergabelhorn beautiful sunrise

Towards our crest

The Dent Blanche is colored ...

The access gully

And here is the Red Horn

Magnificent crest, against the backdrop of the Matterhorn


Always great granite

To the tower of the key passage

The British who precede us

On nice shot

The tower summit

Always well exposed

The continuation on the north ridge with Bosse

Spectacular descent from the summit

The bourrique to do astride and the Sphinx

on bourrique

And here is the famous Rasoir

Arrives Denis

From the Mischabel Strahlhorn

The colors fade

A sunset like this ... has never priceless ... and each time is unique!

The next day we salute the hut and Obergabelhorn ... who knows ...

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17/08/2011 16:11 #957 da Raffaele Morandini
What a beautiful hike! ... By the way, in my opinion, the Cabane du Mountet area is one of the most beautiful in the Alps.

Also wonderful pictures ... the ridge really looks like a blade.


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19/08/2011 13:24 #964 da Daniela Formica
Ebbravo Franz!
superlative picture and original uphill: as always!

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25/08/2011 23:20 #972 da Vareno Boreatti
What beautiful photos! You made me relive a day trip in September of over 40 years ago. I remembered there was the fifth but I remember the "human pyramid" made to overcome a red wall, and the aircraft that greeted us with wings on the summit and Campiglia who did not want to leave the other double consortium of friends Ivrea. Then the sun set and the full moon rose as we descended on the white crest sickle before the glacier. For me, if one wants to make a single mountain in life this is the tour to do. Hello Vareno Boreatti

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