weisshorn

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12/08/2012 06:30 - 14/08/2012 07:20 #1128 da Valerio Leoni
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Saturday 11 August I climbed the Weisshorn with two friends, Wouter and Demis.

Excellent conditions throughout the climb.

From the refuge you have to climb down the path to the sign that indicates the water intake for the refuge. Cross the glacier in the floor, standing on the highest point and then fall flat approaching the rocky belt.
It descends approximately 100 meters towards the right waterfall under quota 3154 (see this step the day before). There was a large stone figure indicating the point where cross diagonally towards left wet montonature water. Then with easy but exposed trail climbs for a sideways obliquely upward toward the right first and then to the left up to the fork.
The first snowfield is fairly constant and well snowy, useful crampons in the upper half. It reaches the rocky median strip where a path leads from left to right in the vicinity of a side ridge at times exposed. For tracks and cairns climbs along the ridge to the right (be careful to the tracks to be searched in the dark), surpassing toward the top of the ridge, taking the opposite side rather exposed on the cliff. Finally you reach the top level snowfield, quotaca 3600 (including a tent was located). The re back to move right into sideways toward a facle oblique dihedral with a fix to the base (and lowered into the upper ring). It ginge at the base of the ridge by climbing staying on the wire as much as possible between traces of path, ramponate and cairns.
Frukustplatz begins at the solid rock ridge, clean and in excellent condition.
The three towers are exceeded climbing (preserves protected) fix using locally integrable.
The snowy ridge (from altitude 4060) is well snow-covered and well-marked. Rather steep, only in the first part a little exposed, then it becomes a uniformly steep slope interspersed by two plateaus.
Roccette easy terminals with a little 'ice to access it.

A breathtaking climb this beautiful mountain severe and demanding.
Perhaps the first part of the climb (up to 3916 share, beginning of the ridge) is the most difficult because the tracks are sometimes to look carefully takes place in the dark on the ground rather treacherous:. The ridge is exposed but not difficult.
We climbed and descended preserved except for a double in the channel-dihedral that leads to the median snowfield, under the rocky ridge. The snowy ridge is steep and tiring, plus a slope that a real ridge. more and more steeply nearing the summit.

The Weisshornhutte refuge is small and crowded. Very rude manager, bad treatment.
Bring to eat anything because the quality and quantity of food are shameful.



and route of ascent top view


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Last edit: 14 / 08 / 2012 07: 20 by Valerio Leoni.

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12/08/2012 08:13 #1129 da Michele Impedovo
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Valerio Bravo!

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12/08/2012 09:00 #1130 da Valerio Leoni
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Hello Michael, thank you!
Kudos to you for the Matterhorn: a large enterprise.

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12/08/2012 16:06 #1132 da Raffaele Morandini
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Aesthetically among the most beautiful mountains in the Alps.
Valerio Congratulations!

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13/08/2012 22:32 #1140 da Giancarlo Bellotti
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Grand Weisshorn ..... !! B)

You have information on the possible crossed by Bishorn? To the north there were traces of climb? Terms?

Thank you :P

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14/08/2012 07:19 #1143 da Valerio Leoni
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the north ridge was drawn.
I think we can safely climb from Bishorn and out of the ordinary, or, alternatively get to and from the north ridge.
The crossing presents logistical problems because we start from Zinal and you get to Randa.
While in Mattertal are trains and buses, the Zinal valley is much less served.

I include photos of the north ridge with the big policeman in evidence.
One sees traces


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Thank You: Giancarlo Bellotti

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