News on 4000

"Cervini" in Spain?

CervinoIn 150º year of the first ascent of the Matterhorn the Spanish Desnivel portal calls for reporting the mountains of Spain which resemble the Gran Becca, in addition to 14 from them identified. According to the magazine "Grandes Espacios" there would 20. Read here the details of the curious initiative.

That the Spanish are a bit 'envious of our Alps?

(LR - Source: 2015)

230 years ago the first ascent over 4000 meters

The August 22 1778 seven Gressoney, motivated by the need to know their origins, their limitations and hope to discover new horizons, they ventured on the Monte Rosa glacier to search for the Lost Vale. With daring spirit they reached the hill that separates the valley of Gressoney to that of Zermatt, exceeding for the first time in the history of the four thousand meters in an area that was called "Rocks of Discovery".

The Gressoney Section will be undertaken to promote awareness of this historic undertaking, through the organization of different initiatives that will culminate with the ascent up to the Rocks of Discovery on August 22 2008.

(Source: Montagnes Valdôtaines, May 2008)

In fact, this enterprise was remarkable because it preceded by eight years the epic ascent by Jacques Balmat, the 8 1786 June ventured alone until near the present Vallot hut, where he bivouacked without shelter and adequate equipment, in one of the first attempts to climb Mont Blanc.


Opening the Rifugio Torino

It indicates that the Torino hut remains open until 23 August. 24 2015 from August until the spring of 2016 the refuge is closed to carry out the planned renovations.
For the duration of the work is not allowed access to the building site, which also includes the old shelter.

For information and registration:

(FM - July 17 2015)

Mountaineers in the enclosure

In pre-contemporary times, there were the diary bands in European cities. Then, with the demolition of walls and ramparts, they jumped, so that people and goods could enter and exit freely from population centers.
Now, if you are worried that in Venice, suffocated by hit and run tourists, the daily closed number with turnstiles is introduced, the perspective becomes grotesque if we think of a similar measure for the French side of Mont Blanc, according to the intentions of the mayor of Saint-Gervais. Access to the Bianco area is a little more difficult to circumscribe than that of the Venetian streets; Therefore, if the hypothesis of encountering, between meadows, rocks and glaciers, a barrier (of barbed wire?) should be avoided, we will run the risk of running into a check of the gendarmes to check if we have the pass. If not, will we perhaps play guards and thieves off the track, risking breaking the neck bone once more? If the permit, painstakingly obtained, will coincide with wolf weather days, will we still play it? If we return to the French side leaving Italian streets will find closed the doors of the shelters and open those of the jail?
That of the mountain is outdoor practice, not indoor, and it is not (only) a sport, so it is something not (totally) measurable and regulated, as it would rather our "security society" (as Annibale Salsa reminds us). All this, does nothing but increase the collective deresponsibililizzazione, to the detriment of the individual awareness of the situations. In this case, those who invoke the slogan "Prohibit to prohibit" are right.
But ... is not that by chance, then, we are all deserving, since some of us have exchanged the mountains for a sports hall with lots of track for speed racing with designer shoes, or for a ring of boxing (as evidenced by the assault of those "mountaineers" to the guides who had apostrophized them about the conducting of the rope to stay in Mont Blanc)?
(Luca Gibello - member of the Board of Directors Club4000 and president of the association Cantieri d'alta quota - 13 September 2018)

Opening in 2013 the new Ref. Du Goûter

The brand new refuge of the Goûter, the starting point for the ascent to Mont Blanc in the way "normal" French, will be open only in the next season 2013, due to delays for problems encountered in the solar thermal system cooling system. The shelter, built to the latest standards of environmental respect and with a capacity of 120 places, will definitely stay overnight more human than the old structure, but does not make it less dangerous the ascent route, as already indicated in report published at the time.

When asked about it, the Pier Mattiel Guide has confirmed recently that "... in my opinion the objectively dell'itinerairo danger .... but there is nothing more nor less than on many other routes on 4000, type Weisshorn, Lauteraarhorn, or even Gran Combin; ...what makes the difference is the combined association with the number of passes ....... I am sure that if the shoulder Isler had the steps of Gouter accidents would be at least ones. "

And Luciano Ratto confirms that "...the danger of that damn gully (this year, despite the lower rate, there were no serious accidents), it will not be eliminated or reduced with a whole new hut ".

(FM - December 2012)