Club News

Bad news: she died the mascot of the Club 4000

Inti Raymi, strong bitch Siberian Husky Club 4000 had adopted as its honorary mascot to have gone up three four (see the news "Inti Raymi, honorary mascot Club 4000"), Died on December 12 2005, 16 the beautiful years (his last record.) We regret very much and we decided to continue this tradition, that his place is taken by his son Uli Biaho. Uli has a name very challenging given to him by his Uli_Biahoowner, Silvia Mazzani of Parma is a beautiful granite tower of over 6000 meters located in the basin of the Baltoro; the diminutive Uli, which is the term normally used, it is however very nice (in German Uli comes from Ulrich). Uli was born in 1993 and is a big Siberian Husky, nearly sixty pounds, very strong especially on snow and ice: his nails, used as a kind of crampons, ice bite perfectly. And 'able to carry heavy loads in his bags on his back, and gets along well on the rock.
In curriculum mountaineering Uli there are, at present, two 4000: Breithorn Western Hemisphere (see beautiful photograph attached which is portrayed in the company of his mother Inti Raymi and Silvia) and Stralhorn, and about twenty 3000 ( Hochfeiler, Sasso Nero, Monte Gelé, Punta Marcel Kurz, Pic de Neige Cordier, Grand Galibier, Piz Sesvenna, Punta Lechaud, Pizzo Tambo, Punta Tuckett, Becca of Traversiere, Cima Venezia, Punta Basei, Punta Ramiere, Punta del Lago Gelato etc.), as well as numerous other less high peaks of the Alps and the Apennines.


Sergio De Leo to CAAI

Sergio De Leo, a strong climber and member of the Valle d'Aosta Club 4000, was recently admitted to the Olympus of the Academic Alpine Club of CAI, and joins the other two academic (Dall'Oglio and Pessiva), already present in our Club.
A Sergio extend our most cordial congratulations.

(LR, 1.3.2006)

Kurt Diemberger Club 4000!

E 'with great joy that we communicate to all our friends that the great Kurt Diemberger has joined the Club 4000, and simultaneously adheres to the Turin Section of the CAI.
The presence among the members of the Club 4000 of a character so illustrious honors us and makes us feel a legitimate pride.
Kurt does not need some presentations, but we still want to remember its curriculum to further enhance her figure:
- He was born in Villach in Carinthia, the March 16 1932,
- Studied business and economics in Vienna, and for some years he worked as a teacher and then became a mountain guide,
- He resides in Salzburg from time to time, but lives mainly in Calderino of Monte San Pietro, Via Amola, 23 / 1-40050 Bologna - tel and fax: 0039.05167.6.856,
- From the mid-fifties entered the pink of the best climbers in the world, especially of mixed and ice, first in the Alps, then the Himalayan peaks,
- in 1956 he made, as team leader, the first ascent of the direct route in the north of the Great Wall Zebrù surpassing the famous "great meringue"
- In 1958 he traveled with Franz Lindner, full crest of Peuterey, turning a ascension film that earned him his first prize at the "Film Festival of Mountains and Exploration" of Trento, in 1962,
- From the 1956 1958 he realized the "trilogy of the great north faces," that is, the Matterhorn, the Eiger, the Grandes Jorasses to Pillar Walcher, always with Wolfi Stefan,
- Kurt is the only living mountaineer to have released two absolute first ascents of peaks 8000 meters: in 1957, with Hermann Buhl, Marcus Schuck and fritzWintersteller, no carriers and no breathing, reached Broad Peak, introducing the style mountain in the Himalayas; in 1960, Dhaulagiri, always without the use of oxygen,
- In 1978, after a break of 18 years, dedicated to adventurous trips around the world, began to climb the highest mountains on the planet, reaching, in the spring, Makalu, and, in autumn, Mount Everest, creating the first film in sound from the summit; in the same year also he climbed the Gasherbrun three eight thousand in fifteen months !,
- In 1984, returns after 27 years, Broad Peak, with Julie Tullis,
- from the 1982 1986, with Julie Tulis, creates the world's highest film-team working on different 8000,
- From the 1982 1999, he participated in seven expeditions to Shaksgam, among them: in 1984, the first glacier traverse Gasherbrum to ghiacciaioK2; in 1999, seventy years later Ardito desire, along with Greg Child, reaches Kyagar glacier,
- In the chain n dell'Hidukush has linked his name to the first ascent of various six and seven; He was repeatedly in Greenland, Africa and America,
- Pioneer in the use of the camera on the big mountains, has worked often in extreme conditions, and is regarded as "the director of the eight thousand" for the many films made in the Himalayas that won him international awards such as the '' Hemmy ", the maximum American award, and, in 1989, the "Golden Gentian" in Trento with the film "K2 Dream and destiny"
- Is also the author of several popular books: "Between zero and eight thousand", "The spirits of the air", "K2-Node
infinity "that in 1989 has won the first prize" Itas-Literature Mountain ", and" Footsteps into the unknown ".
This is the great Kurt Diemberger to which we give our warmest! Welcome! "In Club 4000.