News on 4000

Franz Nicolini tries again the primacy "82x82"

The exciting and extremely demanding race for the achievement of the primacy indicated in letters "82x82", that is the concatenation non-stop for four days in 82 82 UIAA official list, see back on track Franco (Franz) Nicolini, guide alpine Molveno and member of the Group-Club 4000.

Franz had already attempted this feat in the months of April and May 2006, together with the guide Valtellina Michele Compagnoni (see section of this site "Record and curiosity "), but, because of the bad weather, had been forced to surrender with 29 summits to his credit in 12 actual days of climbing.

Nicolini (class 1960), not new to the assemblages (climbing peaks of the Dolomites in 15 13 hours, winter crossing of the Lagorai chain, with peaks in 18 18 hours), however, do not lose heart, and in the spring he made 2007 solo chaining all 106 3000 meters peaks of the Dolomites, in 60 days long climbing routes with transfers on foot or by bicycle, waiting to retry the primacy "82x82"

And now here he is back on track: the July 7 2008 issued a press release in which, with a meaningful title "E'PARTITA THE NEW ADVENTURE: LINE 4000" announces that "June 26 has officially launched the new project which provides for the chaining of alpine peaks over 82 4000 meters", together with Mirco Mezzanotte, former companion of Franz in different climbs including the "Dolomiti 106" enterprise, and Diego Giovannini, strong and experienced mountaineer of Val di Non.

12 days after the beginning of the adventure are already 21 reached the summits. As in the previous attempt is proposed to Franz " make all the transfers between the various mountain ranges making use only of the bicycle, ski or just walking, using the only "human engine", excluding any use of motor vehicles, electrical or mechanical ski " which obviously makes this even more difficult task.

Diary with updates and images of this extraordinary adventure can be found on site

We in the Group-Club 4000 will follow with great interest and participation in the development of this enterprise that he committed one of our most prestigious members, and do we Franz and his companions and Mirco Diego (which we want to have soon among our partners) wishes most felt happy for realization of this project.



230 years ago the first ascent over 4000 meters

The August 22 1778 seven Gressoney, motivated by the need to know their origins, their limitations and hope to discover new horizons, they ventured on the Monte Rosa glacier to search for the Lost Vale. With daring spirit they reached the hill that separates the valley of Gressoney to that of Zermatt, exceeding for the first time in the history of the four thousand meters in an area that was called "Rocks of Discovery".

The Gressoney Section will be undertaken to promote awareness of this historic undertaking, through the organization of different initiatives that will culminate with the ascent up to the Rocks of Discovery on August 22 2008.

(Source: Montagnes Valdôtaines, May 2008)

In fact, this enterprise was remarkable because it preceded by eight years the epic ascent by Jacques Balmat, the 8 1786 June ventured alone until near the present Vallot hut, where he bivouacked without shelter and adequate equipment, in one of the first attempts to climb Mont Blanc.


Eustache Thomas, who was he?

E 'is the title of a long article by Luciano Ratto, published Annuario 2006 of CAAI, for distribution at the end of 2007. Thomas see also under the heading "And Curiosity"

Mont Blanc does not agree with the doomsayers

global warming? Retreat of glaciers worrying? But no:

"The Mont Blanc has increased by two meters" is the title of a news item in La Stampa of 14.10.2007, from which we learn that "The Mont Blanc has never been so high: he earned 2,15 meters in two years and now measures 4810,90 meters. The new height, found the 15 and 16 last September, was announced by expert surveyors of Haute-Savoie, meeting in Chamonix for their general assembly. The new measurement was made during the fourth campaign in 2001 the height was set at 4810,40 meters, in a 2003 4808,45 and 2005 4808,75 in meters ".

But that's not all because "... The Mont Blanc has grown not only in height. The volume of ice, above the 4800 meters of altitude, was calculated for the first time in 2003, and it had been detected 14.600 cubic meters. It was decreased to 14.300 cubic meters in 2005, but has almost doubled in the 2007 24.100 with cubic meters. "

What do they tell the many catastrophic fashion?

(Source: La Stampa, 14.10.2007)

LR, 15.10.2007

Baptism of the 4000

Commendable is the initiative of the Champoluc Guide Company, which, in August 2006, (and we hope in the coming years), they brought the "baptism of 4000" Monte Rosa, with ascent to Castor, at cost, including transport to Colle Bettaforca or higher Verra Pian, the 120 € per person, plus overnight expenses in a shelter.
For information and reservations call 346.2441210

(Source: La Stampa, 12.8.2006 - LR)