News on 4000

The useless battle of Luciano Ratto on Grand Couloir to the Gouter

"The high temperatures are causing major falls of more frequent stones along the Gouter Couloir and so the French authorities in a note recommending extreme caution. The Prefect of the Haute Savoie and Saint Gervais Mayor asking to mountaineers alpiù leaving early in the morning when temperatures are lower, both to reach the refuge of Gouter is to reach the top ... ". This news appeared in "La Vallée News" which aroused the indignation of Luciano Ratto, Founder of the Club 4000. Last year our Luciano had created a dossier the dangerousness of the Gouter route to Mont Blanc and the possible solutions, files taken from various specialized publications. You can read his bitter remarks on the site of MountCity where you can also consult the complete dossier.

(FM - Source: L. Ratto, 9-09-2016)

Luciano Ratto article on MountainBlog

The danger of the Grand Couloir of Goûter on the normal French route to Mont Blanc has been repeatedly reported also on this site (see in particular "The normal way to Mont Blanc". Luciano Ratto, Who has often denounced the inaction of the French authorities in the face of numrosi fatalities that occur each year, he has recently prepared a dossier on "The scandal of the gully of Goûter"In which delves into the problem and possible solutions. You can access them on of MountainBlog site, Which he published it in full.


(FM - September 2015

Returns to the track for the Colle del Lys

Varallo Sesia section of CAI informs us that this morning the mountain guides of Alagna and Gressoney opened a passage on the area under the Colle Vincent where it was formed, due to the high temperatures of recent days, an ice wall at a large crevasse.

It 'was created a real gap that, in fact, facilitates the path leading to the Colle del Lys and, from there, to the main peaks of Monte Rosa, including Capanna Margherita.

You can read the news even on The Province of Biella.


[PB 24.07.2015]

Opening the Rifugio Torino

It indicates that the Torino hut remains open until 23 August. 24 2015 from August until the spring of 2016 the refuge is closed to carry out the planned renovations.
For the duration of the work is not allowed access to the building site, which also includes the old shelter.

For information:


(FM - July 17 2015)

Prohibitions to M. White

Because of the many recent incidents that occurred (the latest victim is yesterday), the French authorities have banned the ascent to Mont Blanc along the normal route of the Gouter. No ban for the climb from the Italian normal route.

On the Italian side it was instead decreed by ENAC, the national body for civil aviation, the prohibition for paragliding and hang gliding on Mont Blanc up to 12 October. The ENAC's intervention comes after the stresses of the President of Augusto Rollandin Region 10 who last July had made the request, even after the recent serious accidents involving people practicing paragliding activities. The presence of hundreds of paragliders also made it extremely difficult and dangerous actions of the helicopters in case of accident.


(FM - July 17 2015. Source: "La Stampa" and. Aosta)