Crossing Rochefort - Grandes Jorasses

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General notes
Climb into the room, long and moderately difficult, which require a good deal of high mountain experience and a safe progression of the crest is snowy and rocky; Depending on the execution time you can find many icy sections or verglass phenomena on the rock, which can make things more complicated than expected. And 'necessary to undertake the climb alone with excellent condition, both the mountains and weather, you also need a good workout fatigue, because, while not presenting high gradients, the development is remarkable as well as the difficulties, never banal.
The times are very variable and linked to the experience on the ground; in my opinion a good roped Canzio should arrive at the bivouac around 15-16 starting from Courmayeur with the first cable car, and the next day at 15-16 the tip Walker starting at first light.
Where are indispensable double ropes, anchors are there, but they are almost always of spikes, then predict lanyards parts, along the way we find some nails especially in the area west of the toe of the slope Young, note that some may lead to error.
The bivouac is in excellent condition, we do not need a sleeping bag, but it serves the stove and pot.

Report
From the Giant's hill (ref. Turin) go up the easy glacier towards the ridge that leads to the base of the Giant's Tooth, it cross a crevasse and easy to go up debris along the not very obvious spur that leads to "Gum" at the base of the Giant's Tooth.
This stretch is very popular so pay attention to falling stones, choosing the 'route less exposed.
From here on, the ridge becomes snowy and very sharp, with almost level course are overcome some minor peaks up to the base of the summit pyramid of AIG. de Rochefort, it climbs routes to the summit rocks, (useful but not essential a couple of pitches). On top of the 'Aiguille de Rochefort m. 4001, ends the 'classical and popular itinerary called "Cresta de Rochefort."
From the peak for easy snowy slope down to a pass, here the difficulties begin as very difficult to find traces in front of us.
Keep climbing as much as possible on the ridge, which at first appears and then snowy rocky. As it climbs the ridge becomes increasingly steep and exposed, with the rock sometimes delicate, and can take a few pitches to reach the summit of Dome de Rochefort m. 4015. Still holding down the ridge, or if necessary sink slightly on the north side (Chamonix), until the ridge becomes snowy again: this stretch is very exposed and the rock often delicate.
Now follow the ridge still very exposed in the direction of Rochefort cap. Before you reach the crest again becomes rocky and sharp, but the rock is now solid and well appigliata; navigate bypassing some gendarmes (useful but not essential a couple of short double strings), then arrive on the beautiful top of the hood of Rochefort m. 3974. Keep going along the wire, since the vertical of the hill of the Grand Jorasses, bend left and several rappels down fully on the north until you reach the snowy slopes of the hill, then in the short to Canzio m bivouac. 3825.
From the hill begins the most technically difficult, where we find some shots of 4 degree to climb the west slope of the tip Young; There are also some nails in place.
From the hill to climb down the short snowy slope to the base of a huge rift that descends from the top Young, up just a short walk through the rift (10-15 m.) And then traverse left and climbing some plaques (4 °), point to the base of a slot evident that cuts the wall from right to left, go up along the slot (4 °) for a couple of shots until the wall leans slightly. So far the wall is solid and generally well dry (if you choose the right time to make the climb), in the next section the rock is rather delicate and is likely to find a bit 'of snow. Hence no rights continue even if you see at the top of the tapes, but climb traversing progressively toward left up to a kind of ramp, which oblique climb again towards the left, and follow it until it ends on a pulpit. Now do not be fooled by some nails rising rights, but still cross to the left, descending slightly to get into a dihedral, to 'hard appearance, actually simple (3 °) and soon reach the crest. Now you step on broken rocks Young m summit. 3996, or if you do not want to go to cimaè can navigate by pointing to a collar which is reached through a double rope. This collar is located between the P. Young and P. Margherita. Here l 'environment becomes very severe, suspended between the north wall and the south side of the Grandes Jorasses.
Down from the hill on the southern side with one or two double strings, until you reach a large horizontal crack a punch that cross the wall to the right, follow it (4 °) pointing to a west-facing gully that climbs toward the tip Margherita. In truth it is not very easy to locate this crack down in a double, so chances are good to get off too: in this case you can reach the typical engraved plaque from a small crack and from there go straight until you cross the gap mentioned earlier.
L 'is important not to go too, because then it would become extremely complicated out of trouble.
Reached the couloir climb it directly, driving rock and ice, or keep on his side right (going) up to a collar placed on a secondary ridge on the south side of the tip Margherita. From here do not rise too directly, but move to the right (east) to the base of an evident dihedral, pass it, even crossing to the right, until another dihedral, then climb it for a couple of shots (4 °) up to set foot on the main ridge of the Grandes Jorasses. From there it is a short drive to the summit of Punta Margherita m. 4065 which is just behind, with respect to our direction of travel.
Now there are more chances of making mistakes, it faithfully follows the ridge, very very sharp and exposed, so much so that at times you have to even hang by their hands. At first downhill and then uphill to reach the summit Elena m. 4045, (3 ° steps if you do well attention, double ropes are not necessary), and then down again along the wire, still very sharp, up to a collar.
From here, holding on the southern slopes around some gendarmes rock mediocre, then the crest widens and easy journey it moves on to another hill which is reached by a short descent (breathtaking view of the northern part). Now things seem complicated but in reality it turns out that going up in full on the south side, the difficulties are limited and with some pitches (optional) to reach the Punta Croz m. 4110.
Now the path is very easy and obvious to the summit Whymper m. 4184. Then, still following the ridge, which becomes totally snowy and with just one short steep and exposed stretch, go down the hill (watch out for crevasses) and from here without difficulty until the Walker m summit. 4208

For the descent, the fastest climbers and well trained recommend the descent from the Hirondelles ridge to the ref. Gervasutti, difficult and long, but it allows you to complete one of the most beautiful crossings in the Alps.
Otherwise, it is given that, well you go, you can get on the Walker peak around 15 - 16 pm,
you can go down the normal route on the ref. Boccalatte, itinerary while not presenting major difficulties not
It is underestimated.