Cresta Innominata to M. White

Innominata the way you normally starting from the bivouac Eccles, reached by a long day (at least 8 hours) from the parking Freney in Val Veny, or more comfortably in two days to charge Ref. Monzino.

A little 'less normal but very interesting is to reach the bivouac in a different way, that is, making full Innominata crest: the Monzino climb to Colle Innominata 3205 m for its southwestern slope, then a first snowy rocky channel, and then to reach the crest Punta Innominata 3730 m; in good condition it is solid rock never too difficult, the main difficulties are over the hill, if you want you can also take the ridge well upstream of the hill avoiding some difficulties. From the top on down Innominata Freney hill (difficult descent) from which the Eccles bivouac and / or Lampugnani.

From the bivouac is around the Peak Eccles on the south until you reach the eastern side where, through a snowy and / or rock channel, if it reaches the tip; Eccles short descent on the hill from where the ridge becomes obvious (under certain conditions, from the bivouac is possible with traverse to the left to reach the west channel that descends from Eccles Hill and for it to arrive directly to the hill, without going through the peak, but it is less normal). Before you tackle the rocky trouble with a couple of steps of 4 degree, then the party begins snowy, sharper (the photos for instance), that with so much snow becomes a bit 'more delicate but definitely spectacular, until he dies in the direction of imposing rocky jumps. Then you cross towards the left to ascend the steep slopes up to enter the obvious gully, (you see pretty much already from the Val Veny) to the left of the ridge (direction), drive very little the bottom of the gully, and as soon as possible is pulled to the left and emerged on the slopes and pointing against the base of a rock band. This stretch when too dry or too hot, or there are other climbers before, could become dangerous for the fall of stones. Reached the rocky belt follow it to its base going up to the left to pick up the thread crest (obviously no longer the ridge we traveled before, but a parallel, the famous "Z" Innominata).

You pass back some rocky jump, then, carry on more or less on the wire, which becomes more and more like going up slope to the ridge, but there are never any problems, arriving to cross the ridge of Bruillard, so it goes in the direction of Courmayeur Mont Blanc. Almost immediately he encounters a rocky jump that seems difficult, but that you climb easily, so the crest again becomes snowy and follow it up on top of Courmayeur White; while remaining on the west slope you descend slightly (this section is often frozen), then some short little hard to falling rocks in sideways, to the foot of the dome of Mont Blanc, then easily to the summit. If you are in good shape you reach the summit between the 13 and 14 starting one hour before sunrise. Calculate in good condition from the bivouac: 6 hours for a well-trained and acclimatized super-rope; 8 hours for a normal roped already well prepared. Put 10 - 12 hours becomes very normal if you hesitate in some passage or if you feel a bit 'too much altitude.

Pier Mattiel