Walter Bonatti

The man, the myth


Author: Roberto Serafin

Publisher: Priuli & Verlucca (Scarmagno - TO)

Necklace: camp Four

First Edition: 2012
Format: cm 14x21 - 173 pages - Hardcover - Illustrations: pictures B / W and color


The man, the myth, the subtitle ... and the myth it really, when you talk about Walter Bonatti. After so many autobiographies which we had used the same Bonatti, what it was new to know about him? Perhaps what he could not tell us, that is, the Bonatti seen by others. With two forewords, a "sincere" by Alessandro Pillory and the other, perhaps somewhat '' forced 'by Simone Moro, the book Serafin, more than a biography is an analysis of man Bonatti, his way of thinking and acting. An analysis that takes shape by the testimonies of those who knew him Walter and has been friends, people to whom the author often gave the floor, letting their memories to form a brand new image of the "myth". A Bonatti comes out different from that to which he or the media had accustomed us. This book brings out those little contradictory nuances of a man who was the symbol of consistency, but obviously still human. In a few pages, perhaps too few (I say this as "bonattiano") is devoted to testimonies of Carlo Mauri, Giorgio Bocca, Mirella Tenderini, Emanuele Cassara and many other people who have shared moments of life with Walter. Anecdotes abound, some of them curious and funny, like the one mentioned by Dino Perolari, which sees Walter tidy backpack of climbing companion, rifacendoglielo completely in the early morning in the shelter dormitory. Events like these in the book, outline a fresco of the character font that was, precisely, fussy, inflexible with people, but also, above all, to himself. author's merit is to have treated the "myth" Bonatti impartially, by inserting in the book the many controversies surrounding Bonatti, from bickering with Armando Aste friendship betrayed, as surprising with Reinhold Messner, to the conflictual relationship with environmentalists. In this regard, let me say that Serafin, for completeness, could have been more courageous, by including the counter point of view of the note Alpina Giovanni Bassanini Guide (which "bonattiano" is certainly not!). The opinion of Bassanini of Bonatti, one of the few out of the choir, was published on the November 2011 (pag.17) of the CAI magazine "Lo Scarpone" (magazine of which it Roberto Serafin is editorial coordinator). The book is framed in mountaineering and unfortunately, just sneaking the Bonatti explorer. On the other hand the volume is consistently added to a mountaineering book series, the "CampoQuattro" directed by Alessandro Pillory to editors Priuli & Verlucca. Instead, I believe that the explorer, more than the mountaineer, was the real Bonatti. personally I knew Bonatti you know that the mountain was for him only the means that it has introduced adventure, but it was only a natural environment, which, as wild, the was tight. The great curiosity, its true source of motivation, soon led him to seek out and discover new natural environments. Bonatti this dimension of man, in my opinion the most important, is rather little breath in this book mountaineering-centric. In any case, "bonattiani" fans will get their teeth into chapters "His big days" and "The major ascents of Walter Bonatti" in which there has compiled a valuable and detailed chronology of his climbing and his travels . In addition, in the pages of the book are remembered all the honors conferred to Bonatti, as well as the literary awards he won. Reading the book, you finally an image of Italy that was, that of the economic boom of the '60.

Raffaele Morandini

(September 2012)