4000 in "Piolet Traction"

The CLUB 4000 site is enriched of new section "4000 in piolet-traction", a tantalizing dishes menu for the discerning palates of high mountain lovers who are not content to climb peaks of over 4000 meters along the normal routes but , alternatively or in addition to these, wishing to contend with beautiful climbs ice.

Quest 'idea was conceived and realized with the contribution of Renzo Quagliotto, a member of our club, and the largest ice climber climbing ice expert who described some collections presented below.

It 'gave rise to a selection of ascents on ice (walls, canyons, ridges) that lead to peaks of over 4000 meters, of medium difficulty ways suited to climbers who have good technical knowledge of piolet-traction, and are able to properly use progression of the modern instruments and ice protection.

The climbs are divided by group, by reference to the official list of 82 four UIAA certified.

Beside each climb it is placed an acronym made up of a letter and a number: the letter indicates the book list below, while the number indicates the page where you can find the description of the way.

Renzo Quagliotto: "Climbing in piolet-traction" - Editrice Monti, Saronno, 2001
Renzo Quagliotto: "glass walls" - Edizioni Euroalp, Milan 1993
Renzo Quagliotto: "Climbing on ice", vol.I ° -Editrice Agielle, Milan, 1981
Renzo Quagliotto: "Climbing on ice", vol.II ° -Edizioni Pauline, Milan, 1985
Gaston Rebuffat: "The massive Upper Dauphiné" -Edizioni Zanichelli, Bologna, 1978
Gian Carlo Grassi: "Gran Paradiso and Valli di Lanzo" -Edizioni Zanichelli, Bologna, 1982
Gaston Rebuffat: "The Mont Blanc massif" -Edizioni Zanichelli, Bologna, 1974
Michel Vaucher: "The Pennine Alps" -Edizioni Zanichelli Bologna, 1980
Walter Pause: "100 climbs on ice and mixed" -Gorlich Publisher, Novara, 1978
Club Alpin Suisse: "Guide des Alpes Bernoises" -Club Alpine Suisse, Lausanne, 1982


The modifications of the environment glacial that have occurred in recent years, can, in certain seasons, make problems (if not impossible), and dangerous, some climbs ice, especially on the walls or in gullies. This is the judgment of Renzo Quagliotto with particular reference to 2003 season, during which significant changes have occurred on the icy walls.
E 'therefore advisable, before tackling the climbs planned, ask questions about it to date at the offices of the Guide, or consult one of the mountain guides who work with your CLUB 4000, shown on a specific section of our site.

Massif des Ecrins
Barre des Ecrins: north face E / 88
Group of Gran Paradiso
Gran Paradiso: northwest wall A / 146 - F / 168
ridge from Small to Large F / 217
Mont Blanc Massif
Aiguille de Bionnassay: Northwest Wall E / 126
Mont Blanc: north face
Mont Blanc: spur Brenva G / 144
Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey: north wall A / 113 - G / 224
Mont Blanc du Tacul: couloir du Diable A / 75 - C749 - E / 150
Mont Blanc du Tacul: couloir Gervasutti A / 80 - C745 -G / 150
Mont Blanc du Tacul: north-east wall A / 87
Aiguille Verte: Couturier couloir C / 57 - G / 190
Aiguille Verte: couloir Cordier A / 49 - C / 55
Alpes Valaisannes
Combin de Valsorey: north-east wall B / 15
Dent d'Herens: west-northwest wall B / 30
Bishorn: north-east wall H / 184
Weisshorn: north ridge H / 196 - I764
Ober Gabelhorn: north face C / 71 - H / 218
Western Breithorn: north ridge H / 151
Castor: north face C / 75
Eastern lyskamm: north wall H / 189
Stralhorn: north face
Allalinhorn: north face
Lenzspitze: north wall D / 81 - H / 160
Weissmies: north face C / 36
Bernese Alps
Aletschhorn: The north wall / 82
Monch: north-east wall L / 156
Bernina Group
Piz Bernina: north ridge I / 108