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Info 4000

List of 4000 by Height

Note. The shares are listed on the UIAA Bulletin, rounded to the meter. In the presence of two units in such Bulletin, it is generated only one major.

Mont Blanc / Monte Bianco

4807

m

The Courmayeur Mont Blanc

4765

m

Dufourspitze / Punta Dufour

4635

m

Nordend

4612

m

Zumsteinspitze / Punta Zumstein

4563

m

Signalkuppe / Signalkuppe

4554

m

Sun

4545

m

Lyskamm E / Lyskamm Eastern

4527

m

Weisshorn

4506

m

Täschhorn

4491

m

Lyskamm W / Lyskamm occident.

4481

m

Monte Cervino / Matterhorn

4478

m

Picco Luigi Amedeo

4470

m

Mont Maudit

4468

m

Parrotspitze / Parrotspitze

4436

m

Dent Blanche

4357

m

Ludwigshöhe

4342

m

Nadelhorn

4327

m

Black Horn

4322

m

Combin de Grafeneire

4314

m

Dôme du Goûter

4306

m

Lenzspitze

4294

m

finsteraarhorn

4274

m

Mont Blanc du Tacul

4248

m

Grand Pilier d'Angle

4243

m

Stecknadelhorn

4241

m

Castor / Castor

4228

m

Zinalrothorn

4221

m

Hohbärghorn

4219

m

Piramide Vincent

4215

m

Pointe Walker

4208

m

Alphubel

4206

m

Rimpfischhorn

4199

m

Aletschhorn

4195

m

Strahlhorn

4190

m

Combin de Valsorey

4184

m

Punta Whymper

4184

m

Dent d'Hérens

4179

m

Breithorn W West

4165

m

Central Breithorn / central

4160

m

Jungfrau

4158

m

Bishorn

4153

m

Combin de la Tsessette

4141

m

Breithorn E (East / Ost)

4141

m

Aiguille Verte

4122

m

The Isolée

4114

m

Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey

4114

m

Punta Croz

4110

m

Pointe Carmen

4109

m

Breithornzwillinge E / Twin Breithorn orient.

4106

m

great Rocheuse

4102

m

Barre des Ecrins

4101

m

Mönch

4099

m

Pointe Médiane

4097

m

Pollux / Pollux

4092

m

Schreckhorn

4078

m

Black rock

4075

m

Pointe Chaubert

4074

m

Mont Brouillard

4068

m

Punta Margherita

4065

m

Corne du Diable

4064

m

Ober Gabelhorn

4063

m

Gran Paradiso

4061

m

Aiguille de Bionnassay

4052

m

Gross Fiescherhorn

4049

m

Piz Bernina

4049

m

Punta Giordani

4046

m

Punta Elena

4045

m

Gross Grünhorn

4044

m

Lauteraarhorn

4042

m

Aiguille du Jardin

4035

m

Dirruhorn

4035

m

allalinhorn

4027

m

Hinter Fiescherhorn

4025

m

weissmies

4023

m

Dôme de Rochefort

4015

m

Dôme de Neige des Ecrins

4015

m

Dente del Gigante / Dent du Géant

4014

m

Lagginhorn

4010

m

Punta Baretti

4006

m

Aiguille de Rochefort

4001

m

Les Droites

4000

m

4000 of the list in alphabetical order

Note. The shares are listed on the UIAA Bulletin, rounded to the meter. In the presence of two units in such Bulletin, it is generated only one major.

Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey

4114

m

Aiguille de Bionnassay

4052

m

Aiguille de Rochefort

4001

m

Aiguille du Jardin

4035

m

Aiguille Verte

4122

m

Aletschhorn

4195

m

allalinhorn

4027

m

Alphubel

4206

m

Barre des Ecrins

4101

m

Bishorn

4153

m

Breithornzwillinge E / Twin Breithorn orient.

4106

m

Central Breithorn / central

4160

m

Breithorn E (East / Ost)

4141

m

Breithorn W West

4165

m

Castor / Castor

4228

m

Combin de Grafeneire

4314

m

Combin de la Tsessette

4141

m

Combin de Valsorey

4184

m

Corne du Diable

4064

m

Black Horn

4322

m

Dent Blanche

4357

m

Dent d'Hérens

4179

m

Dente del Gigante / Dent du Géant

4014

m

Dirruhorn

4035

m

Sun

4545

m

Dôme de Neige des Ecrins

4015

m

Dôme de Rochefort

4015

m

Dôme du Goûter

4306

m

Dufourspitze / Punta Dufour

4635

m

finsteraarhorn

4274

m

Gran Paradiso

4061

m

Grand Pilier d'Angle

4243

m

great Rocheuse

4102

m

Gross Fiescherhorn

4049

m

Gross Grünhorn

4044

m

Hinter Fiescherhorn

4025

m

Hohbärghorn

4219

m

Jungfrau

4158

m

Lagginhorn

4010

m

Lauteraarhorn

4042

m

Lenzspitze

4294

m

Les Droites

4000

m

The Isolée

4114

m

Ludwigshöhe

4342

m

Lyskamm E / Lyskamm Eastern

4527

m

Lyskamm W / Lyskamm occident.

4481

m

Mönch

4099

m

Mont Blanc / Monte Bianco

4807

m

Mont Blanc du Tacul

4248

m

Mont Brouillard

4068

m

Mont Maudit

4468

m

The Courmayeur Mont Blanc

4765

m

Monte Cervino / Matterhorn

4478

m

Nadelhorn

4327

m

Nordend

4612

m

Ober Gabelhorn

4063

m

Parrotspitze / Parrotspitze

4436

m

Picco Luigi Amedeo

4470

m

Piramide Vincent

4215

m

Piz Bernina

4049

m

Pointe Carmen

4109

m

Pointe Chaubert

4074

m

Pointe Médiane

4097

m

Pollux / Pollux

4092

m

Punta Baretti

4006

m

Punta Elena

4045

m

Punta Giordani

4046

m

Punta Margherita

4065

m

Pointe Walker

4208

m

Punta Whymper

4184

m

Punta Croz

4110

m

Rimpfischhorn

4199

m

Black rock

4075

m

Schreckhorn

4078

m

Signalkuppe / Signalkuppe

4554

m

Stecknadelhorn

4241

m

Strahlhorn

4190

m

Täschhorn

4491

m

Weisshorn

4506

m

weissmies

4023

m

Zinalrothorn

4221

m

Zumsteinspitze / Punta Zumstein

4563

m

Distribution of 4000 per Country

A little 'statistics: the distribution of 4000 of Country for the Alps is shown in the following table.
It 'should be noted that the border is almost always coincident with the crest, but because in some cases (eg. The summit of Mont Blanc) the boundary line is the subject of discussion, we preferred to refer to the watershed, of greater interest for the mountaineer, rather than to the political border.

France
Italy
Switzerland
on the watershed
12
29
17
Within the nation
12
10
31
Total
24
39
48

Of course, the sum of these numbers is not 82, number of peaks the official list, because many peaks are located on the border ridges and therefore are counted in both neighboring countries.

The detail of the 4000 distribution is as follows:
Country
Country
Alt.
F
I
CH
Alt.
F
I
CH
1
Barre des Ecrins
4101
x
42
Breithorn W West
4164
x
x
2
Dôme des Ecrins
4015
x
43
Breithorn central
4159
x
x
3
Gran Paradiso
4061
x
44
Breithorn E (East / Ost)
4139
x
x
4
Aig. de Bionnassay
4052
x
x
45
And Breithornzwillinge
4106
x
x
5
Dôme du Goûter
4304
x
x
46
Black rock
4075
x
x
6
Mont Blanc
4810
x
x
47
Pollux / Pollux
4092
x
x
7
Mte. Courmayeur white
4765
x
48
Castor / Castor
4228
x
x
8
Picco Luigi Amedeo
4470
x
49
lyskamm W
4479
x
x
9
Mont Brouillard
4068
x
50
And lyskamm
4527
x
x
10
Punta Baretti
4006
x
51
Punta Giordani
4046
x
11
Grand Pilier d'Angle
4243
x
52
Piramide Vincent
4215
x
12
Aig. Blanche de Peuterey
4114
x
53
Black Horn
4322
x
13
Mont Maudit
4468
x
x
54
Ludwigshöhe
4341
x
x
14
Mont Blanc du Tacul
4248
x
55
Parrotspitze
4432
x
x
15
The Isolée
4114
x
56
Signalkuppe / Gnifetti
4554
x
x
16
Pointe Carmen
4109
x
57
Zumsteinspitze
4563
x
x
17
Pointe Médiane
4097
x
58
Pte. Dufour
4635
x
18
Pointe Chaubert
4074
x
59
Nordend
4609
x
x
19
Corne du Diable
4064
x
60
Strahlhorn
4190
x
20
Giant's Tooth
4014
x
x
61
Rimpfischhorn
4199
x
21
Aiguille de Rochefort
4001
x
x
62
allalinhorn
4027
x
22
Dôme de Rochefort
4015
x
x
63
Alphubel
4206
x
23
Punta Margherita
4065
x
x
64
Täschhorn
4491
x
24
Punta Elena
4045
x
x
65
Sun
4545
x
25
Punta Croz
4110
x
x
66
Lenzspitze
4294
x
26
Punta Whymper
4184
x
x
67
Nadelhorn
4327
x
27
Pointe Walker
4208
x
x
68
Stecknadelhorn
4241
x
28
Les Droites
4000
x
69
Hohbärghorn
4219
x
29
Aiguille du Jardin
4035
x
70
Dirruhorn
4035
x
30
great Rocheuse
4102
x
71
weissmies
4023
x
31
Aiguille Verte
4122
x
72
Lagginhorn
4010
x
32
Combin de Valsorey
4184
x
73
Aletschhorn
4195
x
33
Combin de Grafeneire
4314
x
74
Jungfrau
4158
x
34
Combin de la Tsessette
4141
x
75
Mönch
4099
x
35
Dent d'Hérens
4171
x
x
76
Gross Fiescherhorn
4049
x
36
Cervino
4478
x
x
77
Hinter Fiescherhorn
4025
x
37
Dent Blanche
4357
x
78
Gross Grünhorn
4044
x
38
Bishorn
4153
x
79
finsteraarhorn
4274
x
39
Weisshorn
4506
x
80
Schreckhorn
4078
x
40
Ober Gabelhorn
4063
x
81
Lauteraarhorn
4042
x
41
Zinalrothorn
4221
x
82
Piz Bernina
4049
x
x
Total
24
39
48

4000 in "Piolet Traction"

The CLUB 4000 site is enriched of new section "4000 in piolet-traction", a tantalizing dishes menu for the discerning palates of high mountain lovers who are not content to climb peaks of over 4000 meters along the normal routes but , alternatively or in addition to these, wishing to contend with beautiful climbs ice.

Quest 'idea was conceived and realized with the contribution of Renzo Quagliotto, a member of our club, and the largest ice climber climbing ice expert who described some collections presented below.

It 'gave rise to a selection of ascents on ice (walls, canyons, ridges) that lead to peaks of over 4000 meters, of medium difficulty ways suited to climbers who have good technical knowledge of piolet-traction, and are able to properly use progression of the modern instruments and ice protection.

The climbs are divided by group, by reference to the official list of 82 four UIAA certified.

Beside each climb it is placed an acronym made up of a letter and a number: the letter indicates the book list below, while the number indicates the page where you can find the description of the way.

VOLUMES OF REFERENCE
A
Renzo Quagliotto: "Climbing in piolet-traction" - Editrice Monti, Saronno, 2001
B
Renzo Quagliotto: "glass walls" - Edizioni Euroalp, Milan 1993
C
Renzo Quagliotto: "Climbing on ice", vol.I ° -Editrice Agielle, Milan, 1981
D
Renzo Quagliotto: "Climbing on ice", vol.II ° -Edizioni Pauline, Milan, 1985
E
Gaston Rebuffat: "The massive Upper Dauphiné" -Edizioni Zanichelli, Bologna, 1978
F
Gian Carlo Grassi: "Gran Paradiso and Valli di Lanzo" -Edizioni Zanichelli, Bologna, 1982
G
Gaston Rebuffat: "The Mont Blanc massif" -Edizioni Zanichelli, Bologna, 1974
H
Michel Vaucher: "The Pennine Alps" -Edizioni Zanichelli Bologna, 1980
I
Walter Pause: "100 climbs on ice and mixed" -Gorlich Publisher, Novara, 1978
L
Club Alpin Suisse: "Guide des Alpes Bernoises" -Club Alpine Suisse, Lausanne, 1982

-------------------------------

WARNING
The modifications of the environment glacial that have occurred in recent years, can, in certain seasons, make problems (if not impossible), and dangerous, some climbs ice, especially on the walls or in gullies. This is the judgment of Renzo Quagliotto with particular reference to 2003 season, during which significant changes have occurred on the icy walls.
E 'therefore advisable, before tackling the climbs planned, ask questions about it to date at the offices of the Guide, or consult one of the mountain guides who work with your CLUB 4000, shown on a specific section of our site.

ASCENTS ICE 4000 CHOICES ON THE ALPS
1
Massif des Ecrins
Barre des Ecrins: north face E / 88
2
Group of Gran Paradiso
Gran Paradiso: northwest wall A / 146 - F / 168
ridge from Small to Large F / 217
3
Mont Blanc Massif
Aiguille de Bionnassay: Northwest Wall E / 126
Mont Blanc: north face
Mont Blanc: spur Brenva G / 144
Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey: north wall A / 113 - G / 224
Mont Blanc du Tacul: couloir du Diable A / 75 - C749 - E / 150
Mont Blanc du Tacul: couloir Gervasutti A / 80 - C745 -G / 150
Mont Blanc du Tacul: north-east wall A / 87
Aiguille Verte: Couturier couloir C / 57 - G / 190
Aiguille Verte: couloir Cordier A / 49 - C / 55
4
Alpes Valaisannes
Combin de Valsorey: north-east wall B / 15
Dent d'Herens: west-northwest wall B / 30
Bishorn: north-east wall H / 184
Weisshorn: north ridge H / 196 - I764
Ober Gabelhorn: north face C / 71 - H / 218
Western Breithorn: north ridge H / 151
Castor: north face C / 75
Eastern lyskamm: north wall H / 189
Stralhorn: north face
Allalinhorn: north face
Lenzspitze: north wall D / 81 - H / 160
Weissmies: north face C / 36
5
Bernese Alps
Aletschhorn: The north wall / 82
Monch: north-east wall L / 156
6
Bernina Group
Piz Bernina: north ridge I / 108

The ski areas of the Alps 4000

To the Gran Paradiso

To the Gran Paradiso - Photo F. melindo

Roberto Aruga

Premise
Also for the "four" ski in the Alps, there have been some attempts in the past to list, that gave results rather heterogeneous.
It is therefore proposed, in parallel with the work of listing the UIAA Commission, a list of the four ski resorts in the Alps. In this work is considered as the main reference the article by R. Aruga on CAI Magazine March-April 1981.

General principles
In order to be accepted among the four ski a peak must obviously possess the dual characteristic of being part of the four thousand, and of being judged "skiable".
Regarding the first aspect there are substantial problems: simply take as objective basis the list of 82 four official fruit of the UIAA Commission's work (see the special section on this site). The appearance of "ski conditions" is rather more complex and debatable: this concept can vary widely depending on the individual, the ski mountaineering conceptions of the various eras and techniques and equipment matching. In other words the idea of ​​skiing conditions on the one hand can pick up a set of peaks that all unquestionably judge ski, while the other end, where they appear the most challenging peaks, has an outline quite uncertain and vague, dependent on the judgment of each our.
Considering all this, it seems appropriate, to the ski peaks, give up any idea of ​​the official list from rigidly defined boundaries. It could however, more logically, start considering the peaks considered by all and indisputably as ski, dividing for example, for convenience of the skier, in two categories with different levels of difficulty (let's call them A and B). These two categories can be defined with sufficient precision. Instead the upper end, where the contour becomes blurred and debatable, we can consider a class (let's call it C) that it collects the same ski area four most controversial and consider it as a category "open", that everybody can expand by including more challenging peaks, or even restrict down, eliminating the peaks considered not ski. And 'therefore clear that this third category will be considered as a simple proposal, completely editable, and nothing more.

Definition of the three categories
To define the three categories you can found on these criteria: user ski width (ie width of the part in relation to the entire ski trail); ski difficulties; climbing difficulty. Derive immediately the following definitions.
CATEGORY A. For these peaks the above criteria give a favorable, or at least to the minimum degree of difficulty. Therefore the use of the ski amplitude extends to the totality of the route or for a good part of it, as well as a ski or climbing difficulties are mild and do not pose problems. In this group - at least in principle - enter the four thousand traditionally considered easy or "classic", from Gran Paradiso to the Breithorn Western Signalkuppe, up to a Mont Blanc (note fact that the length or the required effort does not come into this classification).
CATEGORY B. They enter those heights for which the criteria set out above lead to a less favorable assessment for earlier: the width of the ski party can begin to be reduced significantly compared to the previous category, as well as the difficulty or ski mountaineering can be to hear more clearly. Or, in some cases, the descent can be not particularly profitable. It is, in short, of those routes in which next to the purely ski area is to flank the aspect more properly mountaineering with all the feelings that are proper. Among the most typical examples: Grand Combin, Aletschhorn, Dent d'Hérens and so on.
CATEGORY C. Their presence between the ski peaks is quite questionable. For this small group of four the response of the three criteria of assessment is likely to push them to the limit of acceptability: stretch ski reduced or considerable difficulty or ski mountaineering (to fix ideas could be defined as such a mountaineering difficulty classified as PD from driving Vallot or AD by Kurz-Brandt guidance of Valais; do not forget that you are still talking about the backcountry ski path!).
Then there is that group of mountains - extremely narrow, actually - not skiable in themselves but achievable without too much trouble by a four ski area located in close proximity (typical example: on the Courmayeur Mont Blanc). We could define the peaks 'collectors'. It is, for each of these, to evaluate the logic of their ascent in terms of additional time required and difficulty.

List of four ski resorts in the Alps
It is now proposed a list of peaks, first categories A and B together, then C (the latter with no geographical divisions). It should be noted that, to avoid misunderstandings on the route to which it refers, it is also given a brief nod to the latter.

1 - Massif des Écrins: 2
1), Barre des Écrins 4101; ref. Écrins - vers. NE - cr. NO (category B)
2) Dôme de Neige des Écrins 4015; ref. Écrins -Brèche Lory (A)

2 - Gran Paradiso Group: 1
3) Gran Paradiso 4061; vers. O (A)

3 - Group of Mont Blanc / Massif du Mont Blanc: 3
4) Dôme du Goûter 4306 / 4304; Gr. Mulets - Col du Dome (A)
5) Mont Blanc / Monte Bianco 4807; Gr. Mulets - cr. Bosses (A)
6) 4765 the Courmayeur Mont Blanc; by M. White (B)

4 - Pennine Alps / Alpes Valaisannes / Walliser Alpen: 29
7) Combin de Valsorey 4184; cab. de Panossière - low road (Corridor) opp. high road (B)
8) Combin de Grafeneire 4314; cab. de Panossière - low road (Corridor) opp. high road (B)
9) Combin de la Tsessette 4141; cab. de Panossière - Corridor (B)
10) Dent d'Hérens 4179 / 4171; vers. SO - cr. OR (B)
11) Bishorn 4153; Cab. De Tracuit - vers. NO (A)
12) Breithorn W West 4165 / 4164; Plateau Rosa (or ref. Mezzalama) - vers. SSO (A)
13) Breihorn Central / Central 4160 / 4159; Plateau Rosa (or ref. Mezzalama) - cr. O (A)
14) Breithorn E (East / Ost) 4141 / 4139; ref. Mezzalama - vers. SSO (A)
15) Black Rock 4075; ref. Mezzalama - off SO (A)
16) Pollux / Pollux 4091 / 4092; ref. Mezzalama (or M. Rosahütte) - vers. SO (A)
17) Castor / Castor 4221 / 4228; Colle di Verra - vers. O opp. Colle Felik - cr. IF (A)
18) Lyskamm Occidentale / W 4481 / 4479; Colle Felik - cr. SO (B)
19) Lyskamm Eastern / E 4527; Colle del Lys - cr. AND (B)
20) Punta Giordani 4046; P. Indren - Gh. Indren (A)
21) Pyramid Vincent 4215; Postal Code. Gnifetti - Colle Vincent (A)
22) Black Horn 4322; Postal Code. Gnifetti - vers. N (A)
23) Ludwigshöhe 4342 / 4341; Postal Code. Gnifetti (or M. Rosahütte) - vers. N (A)
24) Parrotspitze / Parrotspitze 4436 / 4432; Postal Code. Gnifetti (or M. Rosahütte) - cr. NNE (A)
25) Signalkuppe / Signalkuppe 4554; Postal Code. Gnifetti (or M. Rosahütte) - vers. NO (A)
26) Punta Zumstein / Zumsteinspitze 4563; Postal Code. Gnifetti (or M. Rosahütte) - cr. IF (A)
27) Dufour / Dufourspitze 4634; M. Rosahütte - Dufoursattel - cr. OR (B)
28) Nordend 4612 / 4609; M. Rosahütte - Silbersattel - cr. SSO (B)
29) Strahlhorn 4190; Postal Code. Britannia - Adlerpass (A)
30) Rimpfischhorn 4199; Postal Code. Britannia - Allalinpass - Rimpfischsattel (B)
31) Allalinhorn 4027; Postal Code. Längfluh - Feejoch (A)
32) Alphubel 4206; Postal Code. Längfluh - vers. E (A)
33) Dom 4545; Domhütte - Festijoch - vers. N (B)
34) Nadelhorn 4327; Postal Code. Bordier - Ulrichshorn - cr. NE (B)
35) Weissmies 4023; Zwischbergenpass - cr. SE (B)

5 - Bernese Alps / Alpes Bernoises: 7
36) Aletschhorn 4195; cr. SO, opp. cr. ONO, opp. cr. NE (B)
37) Jungfrau 4158; Jungfraujoch - Rottalsattel - vers. SE (B)
38) Mönch 4099; Jungfraujoch - cr. SE (B)
39) Gross Fiescherhorn 4049; Fieschersattel - cr. SE (A)
40) Hinter Fiescherhorn 4025; Fieschersattel - cr. NO (A)
41) Gross Grünhorn 4043; Konkordiahütte - cr. SSO (B)
42) Finsteraarhorn 4274; Finsteraarhornhütte - Hugisattel - cr. NO (B)

6 - the Bernina Group / Berninagruppe: 1
43) Piz Bernina 4049; Fuorcla Crast'Agüzza - cr. S (B)


Category C: 7
44) Aiguille de Bionnassay 4052; Gh. Miage - cr. S
45) Mont Maudit 4468 / 4465; Col du Midi - Shoulder M. Blanc du Tacul - vers. N
46) Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248; Col du Midi - vers. NNO
47) Aiguille de Rochefort 4001; Gh. Mont Mallet - cr. N
48) Dent Blanche 4357; vers. NO
49) Täschhorn 4491; Domhütte - Festi-Kin-Luche - vers. NO
50) Stecknadelhorn 4241; by Nadelhorn