News on 4000

Mountaineers in the enclosure

In pre-contemporary times, there were the diary bands in European cities. Then, with the demolition of walls and ramparts, they jumped, so that people and goods could enter and exit freely from population centers.
Now, if you are worried that in Venice, suffocated by hit and run tourists, the daily closed number with turnstiles is introduced, the perspective becomes grotesque if we think of a similar measure for the French side of Mont Blanc, according to the intentions of the mayor of Saint-Gervais. Access to the Bianco area is a little more difficult to circumscribe than that of the Venetian streets; Therefore, if the hypothesis of encountering, between meadows, rocks and glaciers, a barrier (of barbed wire?) should be avoided, we will run the risk of running into a check of the gendarmes to check if we have the pass. If not, will we perhaps play guards and thieves off the track, risking breaking the neck bone once more? If the permit, painstakingly obtained, will coincide with wolf weather days, will we still play it? If we return to the French side leaving Italian streets will find closed the doors of the shelters and open those of the jail?
That of the mountain is outdoor practice, not indoor, and it is not (only) a sport, so it is something not (totally) measurable and regulated, as it would rather our "security society" (as Annibale Salsa reminds us). All this, does nothing but increase the collective deresponsibililizzazione, to the detriment of the individual awareness of the situations. In this case, those who invoke the slogan "Prohibit to prohibit" are right.
But ... is not that by chance, then, we are all deserving, since some of us have exchanged the mountains for a sports hall with lots of track for speed racing with designer shoes, or for a ring of boxing (as evidenced by the assault of those "mountaineers" to the guides who had apostrophized them about the conducting of the rope to stay in Mont Blanc)?
(Luca Gibello - member of the Board of Directors Club4000 and president of the association Cantieri d'alta quota - 13 September 2018)

The way of Goûter to M. Bianco: something moves?

As repeatedly highlighted by Luciano Ratto, the "normal" way of Goûter to M. Bianco is particularly dangerous: 16 victims only last season! In "Opinions and debates"of the Forum, Luciano had already presented several possibilities to reduce the mortality of the street, now an article on" Le Dauphiné ", reported not only by Luciano also by the partner Aldo Tosetti, reports the hypotheses that are taken into consideration by local authorities to decrease the number of accidents.

Click here to read the article of "Le Dauphiné"; on the newspaper site Readers' comments can also be read.

(FM - February 19 2018)

The useless battle of Luciano Ratto on Grand Couloir to the Gouter

"The high temperatures are causing major falls of more frequent stones along the Gouter Couloir and so the French authorities in a note recommending extreme caution. The Prefect of the Haute Savoie and Saint Gervais Mayor asking to mountaineers alpiù leaving early in the morning when temperatures are lower, both to reach the refuge of Gouter is to reach the top ... ". This news appeared in "La Vallée News" which aroused the indignation of Luciano Ratto, Founder of the Club 4000. Last year our Luciano had created a dossier the dangerousness of the Gouter route to Mont Blanc and the possible solutions, files taken from various specialized publications. You can read his bitter remarks on the site of MountCity where you can also consult the complete dossier.

(FM - Source: L. Ratto, 9-09-2016)

Luciano Ratto article on MountainBlog

The danger of the Grand Couloir of Goûter on the normal French route to Mont Blanc has been repeatedly reported also on this site (see in particular "The normal way to Mont Blanc". Luciano Ratto, Who has often denounced the inaction of the French authorities in the face of numrosi fatalities that occur each year, he has recently prepared a dossier on "The scandal of the gully of Goûter"In which delves into the problem and possible solutions. You can access them on of MountainBlog site, Which he published it in full.

(FM - September 2015

Returns to the track for the Colle del Lys

Varallo Sesia section of CAI informs us that this morning the mountain guides of Alagna and Gressoney opened a passage on the area under the Colle Vincent where it was formed, due to the high temperatures of recent days, an ice wall at a large crevasse.

It 'was created a real gap that, in fact, facilitates the path leading to the Colle del Lys and, from there, to the main peaks of Monte Rosa, including Capanna Margherita.

You can read the news even on The Province of Biella.

[PB 24.07.2015]