Gross Grünhorn, a climb proposal.

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21/05/2008 20:42 #309 da Forum Admin
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The recent ski mountaineering ascent of Gross Grünhorn of neo-partner Gabriella Avandero (with the guide Marco Barmasse) has prompted our president Luciano Ratto - that this mountain is particularly attached (here ended his fantastic collection) - to brush up his "old "rise project, the following is proposed waiting for someone willing partner decides to try to put it into practice.



[...] I was left with the indelible memory of the tormented descent ended with an astronomical (and still grace) special ride the cable car that took us back to the valley in the late evening.
The question I asked myself then, and I take now is this: it's not really possible to find a route to climb this mountain that Roberto Aruga wrote in "The ski 4000 of the Alps" calls "... one of four ski the most beautiful and demanding of 'Bernese ... ", that is uphill but - above all - downhill, is more" human "(to quote Fantozzi) and maybe more interesting from mountaineering point of view?
I asked myself why good buzz and, in consultation with all the sacred texts and cards to me, unless of big blunders, I thought I had found and can now propose an interesting solution - compatible with the climbs Oberland, as we know, we are never short walks - much smoother than it reminds us of Gabriella, who notes: "... overall our descent was a drop of almost m.3000 for a total length of about 30km ...". Okay that - in the words of a friend of mine - "one mica go to the mountains to have fun!", But to serve our terrible sins we may have to wait a bit.
We then see at a glance this idea: it is merely (so to speak!) To go all the long ridge that leads from the hut to our mountain. Here are the highlights:

-Mönchsjochhütte (3630 m), crest NO (distance of 3 °) Gross Fiescherhorn (4046 m), in 4,30 hours; descent to Fieschersattel (3923 m) and crest NO towards Hinter Fiescherhorn (4025 m), in 1 now; down collar Klein Grünhornlucke (3739 m), in 1 now; climb to the ridge N (steps 3 °) to Klein Grünhorn ((3913 m), in 1,30 hours, and then N ridge (steps 3 and 4 ° °) to Gross-Grünhorn (4043 m), with ".. .belle Varappe course de ... "(according to the" Guide des Alpes bernoises "), that the first climbers, Farrar and Read, August 1907, arrived here from Konkordiahütten, it took 3,30 to rise. This -considerati weather development and modesti- height difference seems excessive to me so I respect that a consortium coached, with the media and today's technique should not take more than 2 hours.
In total from Mönchsjoch Hut to GG the time is 10 hours.

the return can be facilitated by some double rope in the initial stretch from the GG; When you reach the Klein Grünhorlucke, instead of continuing along the ridge towards the two Fiescherhorn, it is easy to descend on the Ewigschneefäld and, crossing towards N, reach the very path of the normal route that from the M & # 333; nchjochhütte leads to the Fieschersattel, then up again about 300 m, in 1,30 hours, up to the hut or better, if you are still in time, at the Jungfaujoch where the famous Eiger train leads comfortably downstream.
Overall, this solution is much more climbing than the usual route from Konkordiahütten; the time is longer, but the return times must also be compared to make a comparable budget; Also the total height difference is smaller species downhill and, above all, has a magnificent ride the crest at high altitude with the concatenation of 3 four thousand, which in some respects can be compared to the famous peaks of the Rosa (eg: Breithorn) and Valais (eg: Nadelgrat) and perhaps the White.
Perhaps there is nothing equivalent Oberland, above or below the 4000.
Finally, the return is not as grueling as effectively described by Gabriella and enjoys closing of the descent by train so this business can be realized by a fast roped in one weekend.

For the workaholic (I was among them during the climb of the two Fiescherhorn) is recommended, the previous day, while from the Jungfraujoch are nearing Mönchsjoch Hut, to leave their burdens at the base of OS ridge to climb Mönch (4099 m), 650 m in altitude, in 3 hours, bringing the tally of this visit Oberland four thousand 4: not bad!
You take the court. If there are substantial objections do it is to just wait for a few socio try on the field the feasibility of this idea that, if deemed valid, allow us to baptize this crossing "Crossing Club 4000" could be proposed as a social outing for the 2009.
For those who do not have the vocation of the high-altitude long-distance racer it is possible to reduce the length of this Sgambati down from Fieshersattel after the ascent of the two Fiescherhorn.

Thanks for your attention.

Luciano

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25/05/2008 13:08 #310 da Forum Admin
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A first authoritative answer comes to us from the guide Pierre Mattiel, technical advisor to the Club4000:


It is theoretically feasible but consider that only the crossing from the shelter of the Monch to GG as described are at least 7 km ridge not counting dislvelli and some times even a little difficult and I think that the estimated time of 10 hours is just enough for a of climbers roped well, well prepared and trained and in perfect conditions on the mountain, in practice with some problem comes immediately to 13 -14 hours from the summit back to the hill of the Monch, after a climb in the opinion of my kind it takes to new at least 5 - 7 hours because beyond the diffcult and gradients are still other 7 km. more or less.
I would say, however, that it would be interesting to try, personally those peaks of 'Oberland I always traveled by ski and I guarantee that it is undoubtedly the best way to attend the Bernese because the movements are quick, only the descent from Koncordia in Fiesch for example made skiing at the right time is beautiful little tiring, I walk I dare not imagine. The ski mountaineering ascent of the Bernese 4000 works for me as well:
1g car in Fiesch then train Grindelwand then train the Eiger and the Monch refuge
2g Ascent of the Jungfrau and Monch overnight ref. Monch
3g ascent and descent of Fischeron to Finsteraaron hutte
4 g rose to Finsteraaron and transfer to Koncordia
5 gg GG ascent to and descent in Fiesch (or ascent to dell'Aletschorn bivouac)
And I assure you that doing the GG and then getting off at Fiesch with the right snow conditions is nice.

Salutoni
Pier Mattiel

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27/05/2008 18:20 #311 da Franz Rota Nodari
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For me the ski mountaineering climb of the Oberland 4000 works like this:
1g car in Fiesch then train Grindelwand then train the Eiger and the Monch refuge
2g Ascent of the Jungfrau and Monch overnight ref. Monch
3g ascent and descent of Fischeron to Finsteraaron hutte
4 g rose to Finsteraaron and transfer to Koncordia
5 gg GG ascent to and descent in Fiesch (or ascent to dell'Aletschorn bivouac)
And I assure you that doing the GG and then getting off at Fiesch with the right snow conditions is nice.
Salutoni
Pier Mattiel


I beg to differ about a hypothetical program ski mountaineering ...
(Although we're OT than the subject matter 8) : Lol: )
given that in another post talking about tame mountain, in my opinion, unless plants are taken and you fully taste the beauty of those places.

1g: from Loeschental (Fafleralp) to Hollandiahütte
2g: Gross Grünhorn and overnight at Konkordiahütte
3g: Gross and Hinter Fiescherhorner and overnight at Finsteraarhornhutte
4g: Finsteraarhorn and RIpernotto to Finsteraarhornohutte, which I think is much better than the Konkordiahütte !!!
5g: Abeniflu and Mittaghorn and descent Loeschental.

If you want you can of course attach a 6 ° day Monch and Jungfrau!

Greetings
Franz

PS: the above we have made around the Bridge of April 25 2007 days in fantastic 5 (c ...) and skis to and from the machine: 1500 m dsl day for 5 days.

PPS: the ridge in question ... I guess it would not be honorable enough to sleep Konkordiahütte once completatala ??? : Shock: 8)

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01/06/2008 22:05 #313 da Forum Admin
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Below other interesting observations by Daniela Formica and Roberto Aruga. All members are invited to express their opinion on the subject under discussion.


The idea of ​​Luciano is undoubtedly original and interesting. Personally, however, after the first approach with the endless movements of the Oberland, I concluded that the means that allowed to climb the 4000 in the most pleasant way was represented by skis. So I climbed with the beloved "woods" the two Fiescherhorn, the Gross Grunhorn, the Finsteraarhorn and the Aletschorn. Always in June and always with extreme pleasure and fun. Loving ski mountaineering "plaisir" and believing that going to the mountains should, as far as possible, be mainly a matter of pleasure, I climbed (and with immense satisfaction descended!) The Gross Grunhorn: overnight stay at the Monch hut, descent of the Ewigschneefeldgletcher up to about 3325 altitude, at the base of the rocky rib that descends from the Hinter Fiescherhorn; lightening of the right backpacks with burial of various furnishings, and ascent, with a long half-ascending coast in a southerly direction, until reaching the glacier above the area overturned by crevasses; at 3400 altitude, skip to shoulder, a short steep snowy slope and overtaking of the rocky rib that descends from Klein Grunhorn; exceeding the 3518-listed rocky islet and reaching the steepest part of the route; at the height of the hill, crossing, with obligatory passage, of an insidious crevasse; left the skis under the rocky ridge at 3960, continue to the base of the rocks until you come to a steep snowy canal that climbs up to the ridge, reaching a hundred meters as the crow flies from the top. Return to the skis and slide of great satisfaction until the baggage previously abandoned; further glide, following the left edge of the glacier, up to the Konkordiaplatz, and new ballast parking at the base of the ladders adducting to the Konkordiahutte. Overnight at the Konkordiahutte. The next day, go back to Jungfraujoch and return to Grindelwald by train.
What a pleasure, every now and then, to speak of ascents !!! ..........

Daniela


By reading the proposal of the Luciano Gross Grünhorn itinerary thought (referring to me) that brings ski mountaineering logic often you consider how important factor the linearity of the itinerary, first a continuous descent, without ascents or obstacles. In truth, this logic should not extend to summer climbs: I must admit that the fact crossings (or better yet, the rides) crest offer one of the best ways to know and own a peak or a series of peaks. The proposal ridden by Luciano see it anyway for small roped-knit; social outing as it is well thought. As regards the ski conditions Oberland and the more or less 'human routes' output, the speech is quite complex. After having been there seven times (five times on skis and two without) with an average of about five days each time, I think that skiing in that area can be a down side to give you beautiful, but above all, in certain conditions of the mountain, it can offer you the chance to get out relatively fast. In other words, if you happen to hot day and the snow does not hold, skiing can go back to being the original means of flotation and then transport that do not will give you the descent dream but simply allows you to move forward. As a way out Oberland is no short and easy, as we well know. One strategy could be to keep to the last day a climb to a peak in the peripheral location, for example at Hollandia, or (in the words of Luciano) at Monchjochhutte (sorry, but my graphics program does not allow me to write the vowels in correctly), so you can get out of the Hollandia on Fafleralp (nice downhill skiing) or by train.

Greetings. Roberto

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