Gross and Hinter Fiescherhorn

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06 / 06 / 2010 13: 15 #613 da Mark Tatto
Marco Tatto created the discussion Gross and Hinter Fiescherhorn
The 4 June me and Valerio Leoni we climbed the two Fiescherhorn skis. The parties 3 day from Fiescheralp, walking through the tunnel Eggishorn we came to the dam of Märjelensee. Following the trail along the hillside at the top (not to be groped by the descent to the lakes near the glacier, which seems easier and more direct) you arrive at a petrol pitch of the helicopters; Here begins the stretch of path equipped with iron ropes and stairs that leads to the Great Aletsch Glacier at an altitude of about 2200 meters. We then went up the glacier keeping us on the right side until the Konkordiaplatz from which, going back to Grunhornlucke, we have come to Finsteraarhornhütte. Overnight in the old shelter, used as a winter shelter. The ascent of the day 4 Fieschergletscher, passage of seracs at the right (Ski shoulders in the most steep section), and reached Fieschersattel from which we climbed before the Gross and then the Hinter Fiescherhorn in a beautiful sunny day, clear skies , and no breath of wind. After descending and spending the night again at Finsteraarhornhütte, Saturday, in peace and in the cool morning we went back to Fiescheralp back along the outward journey. Conditions of great glaciers, lots of snow at high altitude, around just people "tough" in this period of closure of the shelters ... Greetings.

Marco

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08 / 06 / 2010 10: 00 #616 da Valerio Leoni
Valerio Leoni responded to the Fiescherhorner discussion: some remarks
Beautiful and long climb.
With Marco I shared the pleasure of this majestic setting.

Some considerations on the climb just made to Fiescherhorn from Finsteraarhornhütte

1) winter refuge Finsteraarhornhütte is a small room with 12 beds, quilts and several blankets. There are on-site crockery (plates, cups, glasses, cutlery), a pot of 10 liter pots from about 2 5 liter, a frying pan and then 1. Excellent woodstove with perfect draw: burns wood very quickly. There would also be a kettle but it was filled with diesel fuel (!!!!) from 2 Swiss highly intelligent to light the stove (criminals). And two plastic buckets to collect snow or water. We are perhaps at the time 3-4 plastic bottles. Council to take saucepan and stove, especially if it is assumed the presence of other people and finally the cylinder and the gas to get the morning. And maybe of plastic bottles to collect water. In the next deposit to the main building there is spare wood, fuel oil, paper, relief supplies and food but maybe have not seen them. Something is in the dell'invernale belief, however. Also in storage is the latrine (Privat on the door).
2) L 'water is scarce: we must cliffs snow (walking: steep slopes around the refuge beaten by the sun). Alongside the access ladders there is a vein of water and rich enough from above the hut, so safe. A white plastic tube drains from behind the embankment supporting the shelter. You see a vein of water pretty good over the main building, from the wall above, but it is far away and difficult to access.
3) Cost overnight 26 CHFr. On site there is box with newsletters, envelopes and anything else to make the payment.
4) The Aletsch Glacier is covered with snow from Märjelensee climbing. I discovered traits are now just a few meters. Towards Bettmeralp instead the ice becomes very troubled and sparsely covered with snow. Inadvisable to go back from there (see report Daniela Formica sull'Aletschhorn). After crossing the tunnel go towards Gletscherstube hut. , Continue straight (I score reported white / blue / white) to Platta, 2380 share remained high on the glacier. The pitch for helicopters descend for a senteriono partially equipped up to the glacier (aluminum ladders are riverse on site for the lower section when there is no snow). Going ice remain on the left bank with fairly straight path but wavy. With guaranteed snow should move towards the center of the glacier climbing about 1 km from access (flat plateau and no crevasses).
5) The gruneggfirn presents no difficulty. Get around on the orographic left a small central crevassed.
6) Climb to the top: by Finsteraarhornhütte climb around the Fiescherfirn pointing towards the center of the crevasses. Dubbed a rocky promontory there are several possibilities:
to. Traditional normal route: go up on the orographic left under the seracs on with skis or crampons. It takes about 45 minutes to remove the hook. If you traverse decided under the seracs, you can climb standing between the line of seracs and crevasses center, in a part of steeper slope but less below the looming seracs
b. From here, cross the center of the crevasses and one senses a rising ramp from left to right (looking, opprue the orographic right to left): it goes in a rather crevasses, steep with bridges to verify. Intuitively more protected but slower.
c. You climb standing on the right bank of a very steep slope with crampons (report read advise against this solution)

Reached the rocks quoted around 3500 you move up towards the left, you cross a wild area but less steep crevasses and leads to the first plateau around 3600 share. From there easy route. Circumvented another big crevasses it begins to curve to the left (going up, would be toward the right orographic). The slope descends gradually, going up and you begin to see the palteu summit and the true peaks. As long as you do not share reaches about 3800-3900 fact the two peaks not seen it, you only see the 'Ochs.
They arrived at the hill you leave your skis.

For Gross Fiescherhorn climb bypassing a first rock (I dare not call it gendarme), almost flat, then climb a steep flight of a few meters (ice). You get to the ridge and continue on mixed, with several steps rather easy. First a plaque to circumvent going left or right, then a marked block but well ammanigliato (passages of II). It prsegue on the middle of the ridge, snowy, up to a more steep mixed section (but well ammanigliata). A plane ride on a trapezoidal rock, a harness, then go up to a notch. Last 20-30 meters of steep but easy snowy slope. flat and wide peak.

For The Hinter Fiescherhorn climb the slope being lower hillside on skis. You get to a less steep and you can climb to the terminal. We went up on skis until the ridge, a few meters with crampons and were at the rocky summit.

7). Climb around the glacier until the Finsteraarhornhütte is very long. From Fiescheralp calculate approximately 7-8 hours. With the heat and backpacks weighed down by food becomes tiring, as a climb to a summit. The approach via Jungfraujoch is definitely easier and faster.
The climb from Finsteraarhornhütte requires at least 1 more hours than the west channel (Monchjochhutte). Vertical drop:> 1000 meters up the hill against less than 700 and without a long rowing in the plains. Icefall vs treacherous channel, these difficulties.
If you wish to make a tour of several days, I think that the entrance and exit from the Jungfraujoch from Fiescheralp is the least tiring solution.

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12 / 06 / 2010 18: 13 #617 da Mark Tatto
Marco Tatto responded to the discussion Re: Gross and Hinter Fiescherhorn
Below some photos accompanying the report.

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14 / 06 / 2010 10: 53 #618 da Franz Rota Nodari
Franz Rota Nodari responded to the discussion Re: Gross and Hinter Fiescherhorn
Was your father ...
but mistake or the Lions photo is a little 'stretch?
...
okay that when I made it there was a little 'foggy ...
but I do not remember so sharp !!!! : Mrgreen:: mrgreen:: mrgreen:

Nice ride!
Increasingly vast distances though !!!

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14 / 06 / 2010 15: 29 #619 da Valerio Leoni
Valerio Leoni responded to the photo discussion
The photograph has not been stretched.
I only change the contrast.
I imagine that the HD I used to give this stretching effect
cordiality
VL

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15 / 06 / 2010 11: 41 #620 da Franz Rota Nodari
Franz Rota Nodari replied to the discussion Re: photography

The photograph has not been stretched.
I only change the contrast.
I imagine that the HD I used to give this stretching effect
cordiality
VL

no controversy ;-)
I only regret not seeing it because I ... fog ...
Indeed it is beautiful!



greetings and good climbs

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