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TOPIC: Zinalrothorn normal route

Zinalrothorn normal route 03/08/2010 09:01 #677

Come up with wonderful weather to Rothornhütte, the rifugista (very attractive and kind) he tells us that the conditions are very bad and many have canceled.
"3 or 4 cartels have tried," he says, "but they are all returned back to the end of Schneegrat, before entering the wall. And 'too much snow fall, many accumulations, the wind was very strong: difficult conditions."
Great, what hope for more?

The next day we start: me and Carlo, Spanish 4, a lone climber Italian (Francesco da Verona ... if you read, write), a pair of young Swiss people, a French guide with a young couple.

Glacier easy, the wasserlock is doing well, then the snowfield is already soft at 5 morning. Scree, snowfields, crest very beautiful rock.
Clouds covering the summit of the building Zinalrothorn.
At the end of the schneegrat ... fog: all steady .... there comes a bit 'of wind, here is the wall: full of snow!
Schneegrat from us and the Spaniards begin to plow the climb in the middle and even at 30 cm in more and more gear and heavy snow. Gabel reached, with difficulty, it begins the rock: clean is very beautiful to climb. The biner plate is clean, reached the crest, however, we find powdery snow and ice so, hanging on a nail, put it back crampons with some difficulty. The tinker guide, and how often do the guides, pretends to have inexperienced clients, only to pass us on biner plaque and create a crazy mess with cords.
But over the taproots the crest is again nice and dry.
Some passages exposed and finally .... the summit! It's almost 13.
Rise biblical times (7 hours of climbing and the same down), queues and endless waiting. Finally we reach the hut in the evening. late to go down the same evening: it is also a storm coming, that will burst into the 20: 30.

E 'went well, climbing beautiful but too much traffic and too much snow.

In summary: the normal route was in no condition: too much snow in gullies and cengioni. Sudgrat on both the Nordgrat roped proceeded very fast: the ridges were clean and absolutely no wall.

The Rothornhütte is wonderful: clean, comfortable, excellent cuisine. The access path is comfortable

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Re: Zinalrothorn via normal 05/08/2010 09:59 #680

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Re: Zinalrothorn via normal 23/08/2010 14:28 #695

Valerio compliments for the climb.
"Prohibitive" especially in those conditions.

Sudgrat on both the Nordgrat roped proceeded very fast: the ridges were clean and absolutely no wall.

We had to go right then we do the Rothorngrat (south) from Mountet, but rifugista has advised us.
Therefore opted for outing not 4000 but our local, and no less beautiful.
MONTE DISGRACE, 3678m, Via "Cordamolla"
www.on-ice.it/onice/viewtopic.php?t=8542
Even the past we had to condemning it ... but even that was too much snow : roll:
PS: The season is not over yet ... : Wink:

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