21-23 / 8 / 2010 Zinalrothorn, Kanzelgrat

26/08/2010 11:59 #699 da Marco Bagliani
Last year, climbing the north dell'Obergabelhorn I had admired this beautiful and "pungent" mountain! He had stuck with its pointed shape? its particular name. Sooner or later I would have loved to climb it. I admit, however, that I did not really want to go the normal route, so I started a meticulous work of documentation to search for a route that would attract me most: in the end the choice fell on Kanzelgrat, the "crest of the pulpit."
The various reports gave an assessment of the TD - / TD, with the fourth and two steps V. It then was a not extreme but interesting climb.
Could he be a good choice for we the 21-22 August, with all the mountains are thoroughly covered by the snow came in the days before, which made the streets of pure rock hardly feasible because of too many castings. Kanzelgrat on the southern exposure and the portion not too high (from the 3800 4100) would probably have helped clean the toughest and vertical passages: the limit was possible to find a little 'verglass phenomena? but the way was short (300 m) and? in some way we would risen, although more slowly?

No sooner said than done. After the usual, long and exhausting consultations on Friday, at the end we 4:
- Daniela Formica (see his account on this same forum), very sad because he now has a single head uphill on the pitch climbing (the Schreckhorn-Lauteraarhorn crossing, the only 4000 who continue to miss them ...) and all the rest, was also the Eiger north, she is seen as a stopgap salituccia? :shock:
- Enrico Pessiva, valiant Hdemico of Turin who, when he discovered that no longer suffers from altitude sickness, does not stop him any! (Not that it was easy to stop him ...)
- Ezio Moscow, another valiant Hdemico of Turin?
-? And myself.
In short, a diverse group!

The tour is soon told through its highlights: long climb to the refuge (1600 vertical meters), big sweaty, shower with cold water pump (perhaps the most epic of the whole trip?), Excellent dinner time, bedtime.
Then the usual alarm clock that catches me still awake, the easy climb on scree and glacier climbing down the chimney to overtake a jump of rock, the insults in tetesko roped parties who were still to bind and face the fireplace (we overcome them in we did not do them any harm? but they were probably just doing exercises guttural ... ;-) ), The arrival on the ridge, the? "Technical pause" on sharper point of the ridge (by definition the bowel is being felt in the most inappropriate places and unfit?) And finally the street 8 throws that make us come out on the plain, above the plaque Biner, about 13 . Fast climb to the top, crossing with rope in a part of the ridge a little air, the usual insults in tetesko (in this case they did all their own: we were uphill and then with? "Right of way", they were also firm and neatly tied parked? it must have been the same roped am repeating gargling? ;-) ) And leeento return to the refuge.

For those who want to repeat this advice route the report Vaucher, which I reproduce below: is perfect and, if you want even with that in your hands, you can not go wrong.
Here is the text taken up by M. Vaucher, "The Pennine Alps, the most beautiful 100 ascents between the Great St. Bernard and the Simplon", Zanichelli. The carryover in full since the book has long been out of print. In brackets are shown the shots taken in our ascent.

From the pitch-called "breakfast" climb in the direction of Q m 3786. Go through some rocks that lead to the snow ridge (Schneegrat). This ridge, wide at first, then becomes thinner and is sometimes with frames. Follow it to the first rocks. So we arrive at the base of Kanzelgrat, which is still part of the normal route. Climbing two small easy jumps. At this point the normal continuous via obliquely to the left, reaches a gully, then the Gabel, carving similar to a fork formed from the top and from the last policeman of Rothorngrat. Continue to rise with an ascending traverse on snow, slightly to the left.
Overcoming the plates (III) in the direction of the ridge. [L1]
A snowy ledge allows to reach easily after 30 m climbing. [L2]
Spend a little boite aux lettres and head left towards a 15 m chimney ending with a small overhang. [L3]
Climb the chimney (IV) [L4] and continue always under the ridge on the side of steep slabs S (IV) in the direction of another fireplace clear rocks. [L5]
This fireplace reaches the ridge under the overhanging end wall. Climb the chimney by a plaque on the right (V, 1 nail in place). [L6]
After a few meters easier in ascending traverse to the left you come to a precipice cut by a slit. Overcome the overhang (V). a stopping point on a small terrace. [L7]
A plaque on the left (III) can reach the normal route just below the summit. [L8]

- The fireplace of IV (L4) was we "conquered" meter by meter, because clogged with snow and verglassato. Most likely, in good condition, it is only IV.
- In the sixth pitch (the V plate with nail) we did not find the nail reported, however the difficulty is around the 5a and is protectable with friend (small and medium).
- In the next shot (overhang), which is also given to V, we found a nail with white lanyard. The shot was wet but the degree (even when dry) exceeds V: This is a classic "of yesteryear" evaluation where not watched much of the difference between free and artif. If done in free, I think that we can talk of a movement around the 6a. Also this shot is easily integrated with friend small and medium (possibly from "pull" for a while 'dignified artif! : Lol: ).
- On the normal route are present fittoni (plaque area Biner) and stops for the double (usually formed by a single bolt with maillon).

- The climb is pretty, of good rock (amazing exception to the usual debris of Valais).
- The main flaw is the length of only 280-300 meters, which makes part of climbing a bit 'too short compared to the effort that needs to be done from Zermatt to get to the base. A quick calculation of the "hard shooting" shows that here the values ​​are much higher than, for example, on large capucin or all'envers des aiguilles? ;-)
- The Kanzelgrat is therefore not suitable for those who want to enjoy a long climb at altitude, magnesite style shoes.
- The climb is decidedly recommended (in my humble opinion) for those who still want to climb the Zinalrothorn and opt for a path of gloves and boots style climbing (and sometimes also crampons : Lol: ) !!

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03/09/2010 00:04 #713 da Giancarlo Bellotti
Compliments! Nice climb! : Oops:

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