The Great Pillar Angular PEUTEREY (4243 m)

15/08/2012 12:11 - 15/08/2012 12:58 #1147 da Franz Rota Nodari
Grand Pilier d'Angle, 4243 & 4304 m

by Crippa-Lampugnani bivouacs for Col Eccles
Mont Blanc de Courmayeur and Mont Blanc, 4810
Descent "normal route of the Pope" from Ref. Gonella
9-10-11 2012 August

"There is no grand view of Europe. The northern world ends at the sudden rush of the Alps and, on this high edge, Mont Blanc, curled up like a big stone lion, sets the horizon, above the plains and distances bluish Italy and the Southern world. Two leonine shoulders, the Peuterey ridge and the Brouillard ridge, off their imposing mass and rest their legs on two huge drapes of the plains "(Geoffrey Winthrop, 1900).

Photos from the web. It can see the crest Innominata

We'd been to Crippa and Lampugnani bivouacs, perched on one of the Pic Eccles shoulder two years ago with Mara, to make Brouillard . Nothing has changed: the usual "rush end" to grab the last free places (in spite of the night departure from Val Veny), the usual eagle's nest with breathtaking views, where to wait for the night with equilibristiche stunts on the precipice to live with others guests. But this time we have a new friend, Denis, to share the wonders of this slope of White (yes, I have not misspelled: slope with a capital T).
We'd also been to Col Peuterey with Marco last year after the magnificent Northern Aiguille Blanche . Nothing has changed: the same sense of freedom and at the same time overwhelming majesty. The same sense of remoteness from civilization.
But how many times you come back to a place so full of charm, emotions will always be maximum.
Last year, after un'obbligatoria waiting in a crevice for failed conditions of lift Snow, avevam continued for Eccles Couloir to the summit of Courmayeur White, arriving in the dark. Also why not go "blindly" was something that we induced people.
By bivouacs, arrived at Colle Eccles, where part (and where all those present at the bivouac are directed) the famous crest Innominata, equipped with two double from 60m we are on steep slopes under the pylons that cross at speed. At 5: 30 we are at "our" crevasse. Past the terminal crevasse, we come to what we think is the start of the route (and perhaps it will be), but rejects it ... but this is not AD !!!! We continue up to find a new cheminement that allows you to get up. Successive shots with ice, plates, dihedral and colouir in fantastic snow to get to the ridge. We continue to retain, but we do not go as fast as we hoped. Once on the ridge overlooking the North side (magnifique !!!) we are 4243m the true summit. The thread is now plane and snowy and breathtaking. Gendarmes and towers, exciting transoms. Until it passes the large gendarme on the north side and get back on the south to get to the largest share (but not the main peak), 4304m (From Damilano, "Neige et Glace Mixte") , Where we cross the tracks from the couloir Eccles: variant because of the strings which often boast of having climbed this mountain. Regardless of the "game" of questionable and controversial collectors what we want, round the GPA it is an adventurous and unmissable trip for us.
For the magnificent snowy ridge, well traced, as evident from the valley floor, we climb to emerge at sunset on Mont Blanc de Courmayeur. The "overnight" to Shack (?) Vallot, the descent from Rifugio Gonella and the eternal Miage will be only the final corollary (though exhausting) to finish this latest magnificent experience on one of the "noble" slopes of Mont Blanc, at times mistreated (thing that comes to mind watching Vallot or normal super busy).

Here are the pictures:

Brouillard glacier to reach the bivouac Eccles

Bivouac Crippa

Sunrise. Note profiles: Verte, Grande Rocheuse, Jardin and Droites

The GPA seen from Blanche last year: in red the Couloir Eccles, green our climb of this year.

La Blanche observes all our moves

The sun inflames Blanche

Pic Eccles, the Aventine Hill and the Central Pilone. Our path from the hill with two doubles and then sideways

Denis as scheduled (Central Pillar of Freney)

always AD ;-)

Ice fun, but also increases the difficulty ...

White is still high above us

aesthetic passages in the wall

Tower towards the top

The snowy ridge that lies ahead. 4 uphill.

sharp ridges

Towards the gendarme. We will cut right in the middle of the north wall.



challenge balance

Those who are in the north

And down at the bottom of the Brenva

Between towers and ridges

The slope rose

Traverso delicate than the gendarme

Off the rocks

Now it is a "race" upwards

How many times watched from ... now are we here

Turning to the motorway ... ;-)

The ridges covered


4304 the top of the Grand Pilier

beautiful passages

To the summit

The shadow of the White

Output from the frame



Never tired of seeing this light
Last edit: 15 / 08 / 2012 12: 58 by Franz Rota Nodari.

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15/08/2012 14:08 #1149 da Raffaele Morandini
That climb and environment ... and that crestine vertigo. Very suggestive pictures on the wall.

But how many times have you been on top of the White?

Bravissimo Franz, all good!

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15/08/2012 20:50 #1150 da Daniela Formica
Well done, congratulations !!!
... And great photos!


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20/08/2012 20:12 #1160 da Piero Bianco
Franz Bravo!
Gently as you approach the closing of the collection .....

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