A Patagonian BERNINA: Direttissima

09/10/2012 09:54 - 09/10/2012 09:58 #1218 da Franz Rota Nodari
Piz Bernina, Shoulder, 4020m: gully and South Wall: "Direttissima" 600m / D
Crossing: Marco Rosa Hut -> Forc. Bellavista -> Bivouac Pansera to Sassi Rossi

Beautiful photos Vitolo September 28.

Already last year the Bernina Italian had not disappointed. The Serac of Zupò and autumn Marinelli gully to Roseg were two climbs exciting, two logical lines and inviting strangely uncrowded and away from the common routes.
Last fall avevam already spotted the handsome South side of the Bernina , Along which run two historical paths: Direttissima open from Courts and Hall in 1914 along the Gully South and the 1922 line Folatti, Courts and Bonola along the south wall. With the change of the alpine walls, following the climate change, the line that we will cover is a mix between the two.
This year, by which time the 'conventional' season ended, I come with Mara and Denis at the beautiful winter Rifugio Marinelli. The recent snowfalls leave us some doubt, although still higher temperatures could prepare super conditions. After you have Espying only part of the southern slope from the Bernina Roseg, clouds envelop the scene. Once at the shelter we just have to, after turning on the stove and eaten a hearty dinner, lie down hoping for the good to the next day. Will the moon to illuminate our first hours of walking through the Western Pass Marinelli and Glacier Scerscen Superior. Under the junction for the Marco and Rosa hutUnfortunately Denis decided to desist for a nagging pain in his shoulder. Along the Ridge Guzza Gully in excellent condition he comes to the hut and waiting for our arrival. Meanwhile, we continue on excellent snow lasts until the terminal crevasse. Legatici and extracted the "scrap" partiam on increasing gradients and increasingly hard snow. Entered the rigola I place a few screws and some friend in the rocks on either side. Meanwhile it begins to dawn. The environment is superb. At the top you can see the rocks completely encrusted with snow: beautiful, seems Scotland Ben Nevis much sought after last season. Following the ice rigola, strips of hard snow and fun goulottes gain altitude. Behind us lies the panorama of the Accident and the closest Roseg and Scerscen with their fascinating ridges. Near the Breach of Scerscen we turn right on a good hard snow-channel slope. Following a channel between completely encrusted rocks, a white paradise, we reach the ridge of the normal 4000m share. To our left Spalla (La Spedla, 4021m). The track from the summit of Bernina is based and good, but avoid the shoulder. We decide to go directly to reach Denis ahead. The day is spatial. The "white" rocks very suggestive. Some fare, the disarrampicata, two doubles and we are the slope that leads us in the short to beautiful hut. After a stop, we continue down to the Forcola of Cresta Guzza and even lower to get around the seracs, and climb to the Bellaviste. From here we cross the beautiful scenic route of Bellaviste fork. From here it opens to us the world of Fellaria: Lombard glacier wider Bernina. With long crossing we reach the fantastic Bivouac Pansera to Sasso Rosso I had already visited last year for the ascent of Zupò. Dinner and bedtime. Meanwhile, time begins to break down and gets up a strong wind. Wind bother us all night. The next day under a light storm we go down to view the pole ablatometrica that we have placed on the Fellaria West Glacier in 2009, 100 cm of ice lost ;-( . Along the maze of glacier crevasses and moraines and endless pastures to arrive refuge BignamiWith a grigion and foggy weather. After the dam Lake Gera Finally we come to the car.
A three-day superlative. A way also this wrongly neglected. Of unusual conditions that have made it absolutely unforgettable. In short, the ingredients for wanting to return again to discover the beauty of this side, which has not only the normal Bernina ...

Here are the pictures:

The itinerary as seen from a few summers ago Accident

The tour map: Campo Moro -> Rifugio Marinelli -> Bernina -> Bivouac Pansera to Sasso Rosso

And 'fall: check the Roseg

Here's our very snowy destination

bivouac Life: Another use of ice ax ...

And go



in rigola

conditions super


Accident, Roseg and Scerscen


Ben Nevis?

perfect condition

incredible formations

By then that are off




Descent from normal

Catching the sun ... ;-)

At Marco and Rosa awaits us Denis

And together we continue under the Cresta Guzza

At about Bellaviste

Dedicated to Friends

With the background of the Piz Spinas

Our home for the night

Visione nota. Il [url=[img]http://www.on-ice.it/onice/viewtopic.php?t=11552]seracco “d’argento”[/url] [img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jEJNiWeWrhs/UHPhuykUlAI/AAAAAAAACW8/xUqn1hJR-MM/s800/P1210275.jpg
Last edit: 09 / 10 / 2012 09: 58 by Franz Rota Nodari.

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