The other side of ARGENTIERE

23/10/2012 16:04 - 23/10/2012 16:07 #1219 da Franz Rota Nodari
Aiguille d'Argentiere, 3901m: N Wall, 700m, D-

Note, indeed an arcinota, for its beautiful ski mountaineering slope that starts from the Refuge d'Argentière and the homonymous glacier (I had walked in the 2007 with Grigna & co), theAiguille d'Argentiere also has a sleek and attractive north wall. At its base is the wide glacier Saleina. And 'the Swiss side of the White Group, which is bordered by Val Ferret La Fouly. I always promised myself to visit this area next to the Glacier du Trient. The opportunity comes with the latest snowfalls that have touched with less intensity than the White Central Alps.
With Mara, Inge (Mauro) and Oli descend from Italy in the Valle del Gran San Bernardo in a blaze of autumnal colors, along the road that leads to the water intake of Reuse. In 3 hours scarce, even following a long equipped path, we reach the Capanna de Saleina. From there opens a magnificent panorama on the homonymous glacier and our goal. Once off the glacier and after a sweep towards the wall (beating 15 cm of fresh snow), we go up to the fabulous Bivouac des PLINES (or de l'Envers des Dorées), 2983m. A structure in a panoramic position on the entire basin. In the book of the bivouac of up to ten years ago, we do not find even an Italian! The next day, we attack the wall that it is still night. After the slightly tiring approach for powder snow, we raise this improves to become the classic "Couic-Couic". We graze the serac (60 °) protecting us on the ice it and we come to the shoulder. From here to the fast ridge we reach the final partition wall: Funny and steep (65 °) in soft ice. Once on the main crest opens to us a fantastic view of the north walls of Courtes, and Droites Verte. The sharp snowy ridge will definitely leads to the summit. I got out of the partition wall with a double from 60, we take the path Whymper on the south side, on perfect snow backwards (45 °), but come on 3400 meters we decide to equip three doubles on a cliff face to reach the first Colle di Chardonnet. It will prove to be an inspired solution. Latest two doubles and we're back at the base of our wall. Now we have only the long descent (and alas also the ascent to Saleina shelter) until we reach the valley floor where it is already dark.
An excellent way, in a magical place, with valid members: in short, the "old story" is always the same ;-) But every time it repeats that it was worth !!!

Video of the hill
And Inge (much more professional):

And the photo:

The map of the tour. The ascent to the bivouac. Orange wall. In the descent green.

photo by web : The rise and fall by the way Whymper

The "door" of the glacier Saleina

From Capanna Saleina the ascent route

The Argentiere glacier and Saleina. The bivouac des PLINES is on the right past the moraine

The couloir Barbey, interesting for a return. N on the right

Besides the bivouac des PLINES

The vast glacier Saleina

Patrolling to the wall

The bivouac des PLINES

Toilet with views (Grand Combin)


that luxury

But here we are in the wall


On the shoulder

La Verte with the crest of the Montets

The stunning Aiguille de Chardonnet

Last wall

Now on the ridge

Continuing towards the summit

The view towards the bivouac des PLINES ... lontanooooo


Go down

Under the Rue Whymper

Let us go and see if you can get off here

One of the 3 double

The Chardonnet hill where'll pass

The Whymper is green. Our double rooms are blue.
(From web

Last edit: 23 / 10 / 2012 16: 07 by Franz Rota Nodari.

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 0.361 seconds
Powered by Kunena Forum