Mont Blanc: the Brenva, the spur

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29/07/2013 11:49 - 29/07/2013 11:51 #1273 da Franz Rota Nodari
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Sperone Brenva (Var. Farrar - Via Moore): 900m / ° 60 / 1 / IV / D


Gaston Rebuffat writes speaking of the climb:
This is a climb which together depends not only on technical, but first of all by the maturity of mountaineer and his sense of the mountain.
"Mont Blanc - The most beautiful 100 ascents" (Zanichelli, 1974)





Were several weeks rimandavamo this tour for evening instability that scared us. We wanted to take advantage of the moon and go on with its comforting light, but were promptly risk of thunder. In fact it was for years that were planning; certainly since the avevam close up view direct to the North of Blanche.

The Farrar variant seen in 2011 from North Blanche


That's how last Friday we go to the bivouac of the Fourche with Mara and Livio. From Torino refuge heaven alternates clouds to sun, does not do all the heat that they expected (although by all sides feel eerie rock collapses, big especially under the Tour Ronde and Kuffner to Maudit), the snow keeps strangely wonderfully and we follow a track old (amazingly still frozen) passing under the majestic Capucin. Easily exceeded the crevasse we climb the steep slope of snow and rock easily protecting us even on rock. Surprise at the bivouac when, instead of the usual crowd, we find only two English climbers (to which you will add two later Slovenian), direct to Kuffner. The afternoon spent drinking, eating and napping. Scrutinize the variant Güssfeldt to Brenva, but just do not like, too exposed to falls of seracs, also seeing the remains of the glacier. We decide definitively so for the old Farrar variant that passes where the 1996 dropped a landslide, but snow is convenient and quick (as covered by Bonino - two weeks ago - and Formica + Bagliani - in 2011).

The Farrar variant at Sperone. From "Neige et glace mixte", Damilano


They are 22: 30 when we launch the first double over the railing (60 m). A second double by 60 m overcomes the crevasse now fully open terminal (thanks to Papageno for the report ... otherwise we brought one string and ... !!!). Fast we crossed under the seracs to the Col Moore, 3525m, reachable with a few meters of steep putting screws into ice. The crevasse you go again, but not for long. The snow of the glacier begins to freeze and is a diffuse gleam in the light of the front. Are the 00. As expected the moon has arrived and although it is still waning illuminates beautifully. Hence it is evident our itinerary studied in photo desk: you go down, you cross to the snow, go up to the neck and then on to the snowy ridge.
We feel collapsing seracs from Blanche and Güssfeldt, but we are protected here. Snow is initially little rigelata and it is best to protect yourself with some spur, but it proceeds more is improving. From time to time also they cross rigole deep and it is always something rather unpleasant, but the snow is now harder and climb well. Once at the collar that gives access to the Red Sentinel climb right now for very unstable rocks. Few meters annoying, but we overcome them soon. Fortunately returns the snow and also excellent that brings us to the main ridge of the spur. Are the 4. Hence you can not go wrong. First stretch of excellent snow with pestilence, then begins the ice under a layer of hard snow and smooth start to put some lives of preserves. Meanwhile, the sky lights up as the seracs that dot the wall. Magnificent! We can even take a breath. A drawback obliges us to a forced stop, but continue in the short. It is anything but cold: we are also covered in the sun. We see more and more near the rocky gendarme that marks the end of the spur against the seracs. Tional him get over on the left in a picturesque canal and then turn right into a long traverse between the seracs (sometimes steep), but in excellent condition with no serious dangers (we are always in a wild and hostile zone). We thus arrive smoothly at Colle Brenva. A cloud has placed fixedly on the summit of Mont Blanc over the Mur de la Cote, although the peak was only an option, without hesitation we decide to return. However, even the cloud has helped to make it "cool" the release under the seracs. When we came out of the hill as "magic" will cover everything behind us.
The descent from the Trois Monts Blanc, lashed by a gust of wind that does not predict the 40 degrees of the valley floor, will always be long, but in excellent condition (we will see the Tacul seracs that had already fallen on the normal days).
A trip that will remain indelible in our memories, perhaps the only line that I will see to that wall so dangerous, but equally fascinating. And thanks to the members with whom I shared this climb. A special mention to Livio that was his first experience in the "real" Black and whose enthusiasm that followed the ascent seems to be the best sign of how much he enjoyed it !!! Until next time then!

But here are the pictures:

La Fourche with the release of Brenva

The climb to the Fourche

Cirque Maudit, Tacul and the Diable

Climbing companions

bivouac life

Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey
Vs 2011 2013: another wall

The Brenva (photo 2011)

The output to the rocky pinnacle

evening panorama

Noire et Blanche: good night!

on Sperone

Courmayeur and Grand Pilier d'Angle



Still a bit 'of the moon

Forza videos: look in what place we have "brought you" !!!!

Alba magnificent (Dente, Weisshorn, Jorasses, Combin)

Ignites everything

The sun

double WOW

We arrive Mara

Coffee break ;-)

The passage

glacial mass

The covered ridge. To the left of the exit Güssfeldt variant with the tracks. Right our slope. Under the Col Moore.

Hole (Stambeck would definitely went left ;-) but then incrodarsi above in holes ;-))))))

nice couloir

Fish eye? WOW

Between ice and rock



Crossing below the seracs

Navigating under seracchi2

To Col Brenva

Over the world

Traverso delicate, but in very good condition

Col Brenva

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Last edit: 29 / 07 / 2013 11: 51 by Franz Rota Nodari.

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