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TOPIC: The edge of the shovel

The edge of the shovel 06/08/2013 19:46 #1285

And 'there for at least 30 million years, say the geologists, like the prow of a ship eternally immobile, lapped by the waves of the valleys and glaciers. A granite prow brought forth by the huge orogeny events, when gigantic tectonic forces beyond our imagination, upset oceans and continents. There were already plants and animals but not the little man who makes his appearance only 5 million years ago, and no doubt the Edge does not care anything. We too climbers can fregarcene of how they created feldspars and plutonites, we know that the granite Badile has something special, consumes the skin of the fingers, its dihedral, its splits, its roughness leave their mark.
Mountaineers were to attribute name and meaning to these spectacular but still inanimate "piles of stones." Were the Coolidge, the Klucker, the Risch, the Cassin, the Fiorelli and many others to create the myth of the shovel, a myth that populates the dreams of many climbers.
Among them there are those who only want to know which is the degree difficulty, how many shots, how many nails, how many passes of 5 ° ° 6, 7 ° etc. etc. (And if there is at least some 5 and 6 ° ° climb is that?).
For us, however, modest mountaineers from the mentality a little bit backward, a far cry now from the technical capabilities of modern climbers, the days in the mountains have no value for the degree of difficulty overcome, but for the stories that climbing tell us, for ' human experience that make us live, for the emotions that cause us.
So Spigolo tells us of the great Christian Klucker alone, back in 1892, rises and falls more than two-thirds of the ridge, no rope, no nails, no boots. As Preuss, but 20 years prima.Poi arrive Calegari three brothers, who are just two leave home because her sister, run all over the edge, but a little bit from the bottom and a little above, and judges them disqualify immediately and, as happens in certain Italians, we rimediamo even a bad impression. Finally in 1923 comes the strong guide Walter Risch, who wins the game, taking with him the wealthy and anxious customer Alfred Zurcher who, even terrified, will write an epic report of the climb in the bulletin of his Alpine Club.
Considering now the hardest climbing on granite in the Alps, after little more than a decade to become a classic fashion and after a few female ascent, ironically citing Mummery, someone writes that the Edge has fallen from more challenging via rank to that of the Alps easy outing for ladies.
But is not the same fate of the legendary Cassin, climb now every day from athletic member that same evening if they sleep blissfully at home or at the refuge Gianetti?

In 30 years I have gone up three times on the shovel, from Molteni, the Cassin and the North edge. It 'a beautiful mountain and cheering because it remains so for other 30 million years, to populate the dreams of climbers of all ages.

Shovel Edge North
800 meters altitude difference, development 1200 meters
Difficulty: D. About 25 shooting, passing the II, III, IV. A short passage of V.
Via equipped. Descent on the Italian side of the normal or double on the way.
Salita made on August 3 2013. About 4 30 hours and the attack on the summit. Descent with a similar time, about double from 15 60 meters equipped (rings reinforced with several chain bolts).
Climb the rope with Mario and Chiara Ravetti Ciriolo

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Re: The edge of the shovel 08/08/2013 17:48 #1289

Congratulations to the edge!

Interesting your introductory summary to the Pizzo Badile, in which, among other things, you mentioned the figure of Christian Klucker and his attempt / undertaking at the edge. A figure, that of the brave and skillful Swiss guide, which, as became known, was a bit 'eclipsed by historians of mountaineering, in favor of other "pioneers". However, the book "Memoirs of a mountain guide" gives us an inimitable Klucker.

Just for all you have taught in your written brief, perhaps, the Pizzo Badile, more than other mountains, is the perfect meeting place between nature and culture. What then ... what else is mountain climbing if not this?

Raffaele

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