Schreckhorn

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07 / 08 / 2013 06: 09 #1286 da Valerio Leoni
Beautiful and challenging the top of the Bernese Oberland, climbed Monday, August 5 with Tiziana, Demis and Mark on a hot sunny day.
Excellent condition, which is quite open crevasse passes at one point to the right.

From the hut, it goes down debris on the glacier that still has patches of snow on his right side orographic. The transition to move up the debris slope towards Gaag is easily found even in the dark also because it is easily viewable from the shelter.
Snow Iniza 2700 to share and with good track climbs the steep snowfield until about 2800 share. Then across scree you reach the top of the Gaag where you put your crampons to cross the glacier and back (closed with easy passage).
The terminal is open: there is only one step to the right under the Schreckhcolouir and then a steep sideways you reach the coluoir little snowy.
We climbed on the ridge on the left (the channel is unusable and dangerous for falling stones).
A few steps III on ridge to the saddle at an altitude of 3850 Iniza where the real climb.
There are only pitons for doubles and one bolt at the end of an exposed passage of III + after which he turns on the slope in the shade to go up a narrow and cramped dihedral where a strip facilitates air passage and overhanging. then go up through debris to the top taking care all'esposta crest.
long and difficult descent with a dozen dropped along the ridge and 5-6 fell along the ridge in part descended disarrampicando.
To overcome the terminal you can be done again through or under the waterfall that descends from colouir atrezzare a double from 60 meters leading to a build-up under the open terminal.

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