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TOPIC: Gully FOLATTI: poker channels to BERNINA

Gully FOLATTI: poker channels to BERNINA 01 / 10 / 2013 07: 15 #1334

1 - ZUPO ', 3987m. Serac Forcola Zupò. 2011

2 - Roseg, 3915m. Gully Marinelli. 2011

3 - BERNINA, 4049m. Direct route. 2012

4 - ARGENT, 3995m. Folatti gully. 2013



Beautiful photos Vitolo the 28 September 2012. And Swiss map ( map.wanderland.ch/?lang=it )

The southern side of the Bernina, this stranger! Apart from the super normal classical to the maximum peak, the Italian side of the main ridge of the Bernina is decidedly snubbed by mountaineers. Peaks that reach 4000 meters and are mostly uphill for their northern slopes (Swiss): the Roseg from Eselgrat or the North, the Scerscen by Naso, the same Bernina from Biancograt, Argent and Zupò skis from Morteratsch, the Palu ... However, the Italian side gives a rundown of interesting ways, rewarding and not particularly difficult or dangerous, if caught at the right time. In the last three years have me focused, with different partners, on these streets "getting" a poker unforgettable gifts. The piling of poles ablatometriche of Glaciology Lombardo Service in 2008 3500 to m on Fellaria Glacier leads me to be "forced" visit to this side with an annual periodicity. And why not join every time a trip to the mountains? For choice of the period in favor of the slope "hot" (best-freeze, lower heat and danger of shock and sudden transformation of new snow in the sun) that for the reduced presence of crowds, I have always served and only dell'invernale of Marinelli or bivouacs Pansera Parravicini and in the autumn.
For other trips back to the initial report linked list.

Fourcla d'Argient: Gully Folatti, 500m / 50 ° (70 ° output, according to the line) / D

Thanks to Teo and James for the photo

Friday afternoon with Mara and Roby (Poz) go up in 2h45 to Rifugio Marinelli, closed for a week. We already know his bell'invernale. We may even find in it two cans of water, bread, a barattolone of yogurt (which will not touch ;-)) And jam. And the excellent stove that we use just to warm up a little the environment (and the sausage ;-)) Having regard to this little wood. For our Oktober fest could not miss beer and sausages ;-) followed by risotto and sweet ;-) The afternoon was not very peaceful and we were risking to take some water up to the shelter with a temperature other than summer ... it is now autumn. In the evening, however, the horizon begins to light up and is hoping for the next day. It is in fact under a great star that we reach the Western Marinelli Pass and descend on the upper Scerscen glacier. There is initially little snow and we walk on live ice. Towards the attack of the Canalone Folatti instead the snow is covered by a layer of debris that the wind rises and pushes annoyingly into the eyes: a remnant of a recent landslide from Cresta Guzza. It's still dark. We arrived before the expected time here. However, we are guided by our white line between the massive walls of Cresta Guzza and Argento. Some rock falling from above initially gives us doubts about the safety, but let's check it out of small rocks that are detached from a side wall encrusted with ice, shortly outside our line. Surpassed without any problems the terminal creep, we climb on good snow carrying two-thirds of the channel and the light comes. The environment is top notch and behind us the landscape also lights up. Start the ice and begin to keep it protected. Above us the wall of the eponymous seraphim. Moving to the left on sunken ice and marble we take a snowy line and soft ice from melting / snowing: a pleasure! Stopped at the side, next to the rocks, we continue for a 70 ° salt jumping with beautiful ice and snow "cauliflowers". We go to the hill at 9 and the wind, which in the channel was almost absent, invests us. The temperature is far from mild. To the right we climb the frozen dowony leading to the plateau under the Piz Argent. We leave the backpacks and the sharp crest at the summit. Sublime landscape and tense wind. Just the time of a few photos and down to the backpacks. Now we cross beneath the Bellaviste by intercepting a great track and some lager mountaineers directed to Bernina (mah!). At 12: 30 we pass the Colle Bellavista and go down to Fellaria Glacier. After a few snow depth surveys (40 cm above a layer of impenetrable firn) we intercept the SGL (which we have entered here in the 2008) at 3450 below the Bivacco Pansera. It emerges from 73 cm (in snow 20): not bad! We quickly exclude the initial idea of ​​getting off the glacier after falling into a covered crevice that does not see the bottom. So let's go for a bastionate of initially hard-faced rocks, which I climbed into the 2008, and which offers a fun climbing (II) backlinks. Meanwhile, the weather is getting worse as expected, but now it is "only" a long (7,5 km !!!) downhill to Rifugio Bignami and Campo Moro, where we reach the 18.
Thank you to the members who have followed me even in this latest sweep. And thanks to Roby for a trip that finally we have been able to share. Gita full and exciting day. And next on this side? Well to do quintet there is still an "unprecedented" attractive line ahead ... we pazientiamo a year and you are back!

Towards the Marinelli, check the Folatti left

What remains of the hanging glacier of Caspoggio

Magical sunset on Accident

Here it is (far better conditions of 2012 !!!)

hidden peaks ... but clearly visible channel.

Within

Ambientone

Opa Franza Style

Start the ice

Marble ...

Towards the "gully"



fun

Glimpse between walls

Godooooo

Brava Mara photographer

outgoing fun

End of transmission

venghino lords

Go Robyyyyy

The looming seracs

His Majesty Pizzo Bello

Bernina

sky Argientato

Pastel Colours

Let him travel backpack to the summit

Wall

"Photo" peak

Iceberg at Eastern Fellaria

roseg

On the crossing of Bellaviste

Piz Spinas (or Western Palu)

glacial immensity

Under the Zupò

The other side dell'Argient

Pole ablatometriche SGL, Fellaria glacier, 3450m
(73 cm emergence, of 20 cm of snow. Last year it emerged the 93 37 + cm)
So 93 130 vs ... a little something (firn or ice?) Gained ...

Downhill rocciatoria variant

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Last modified: by Franz Rota Nodari.

Re: Canalone FOLATTI: channel poker at BERNINA 04 / 10 / 2013 17: 47 #1336

Uela what luxury! "Two birds with one stone!" Work and climbing, how to say, duty and pleasure.

First congratulations, I know the channel - view - and I must say that it takes courage to slip inside. The 70 ° in the final must have been tough. The season is the right choice for this area ... as rightly say, at this time it is safer and then, which is far from negligible, with no one around and the pleasure of being in the bivouacs.

A curiosity, where did you take the first photo, the one with the whole mountain range on which the paths are traced? Years ago I had taken an identical from the top of Corno Mara (m 2809), above Sondrio.

Still good, and good luck for the next line to be drawn in the area.

Raffaele

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Re: Canalone FOLATTI: channel poker at BERNINA 11 / 10 / 2013 13: 37 #1339

Raffaele Morandini wrote: First of all congratulations, I know the channel - the view - and I must say that it takes courage to slip inside. The 70 ° in the final must have been tough. The season is the right choice for this area ... as rightly say, at this time it is safer and then, which is far from negligible, with no one around and the pleasure of being in the bivouacs.
A curiosity, where did you take the first photo, the one with the whole mountain range on which the paths are traced? Years ago I had taken an identical from the top of Corno Mara (m 2809), above Sondrio.
Still good, and good luck for the next line to be drawn in the area.
Raffaele

Hello Raffaele
70 the final grades were not very tough for the type of ice found: soft and "cauliflower" for comfortable support.
We say very lucky because as you know the ice serac is usually hard and spaccoso.
Far more "stubborn" the stretch before smooth ice, hard and spaccoso, but only for 50m. First just snow.

instead different speech for the direct ascent of the serac which would have been a bell'ingaggio ... not for the slope (even for charity), but for the type of ice.

Quite different situation last year during the same period (when we have climbed Bernina ) Where there was a single slab of ice ...
It takes a little 'c ... franziano occasionally ;-)

The photo was taken by a amico on-ice from the Orobie to September 2012 I seem to remember from Vallocci area nearby Foppolo.

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