Gully FOLATTI: poker channels to BERNINA

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01 / 10 / 2013 07: 15 - 01 / 10 / 2013 07: 18 #1334 da Franz Rota Nodari
1 - ZUPO ', 3987m. Serac Forcola Zupò. 2011

2 - Roseg, 3915m. Gully Marinelli. 2011

3 - BERNINA, 4049m. Direct route. 2012

4 - ARGENT, 3995m. Folatti gully. 2013



Beautiful photos Vitolo the 28 September 2012. And Swiss map ( map.wanderland.ch/?lang=it )

The southern side of the Bernina, this stranger! Apart from the super normal classical to the maximum peak, the Italian side of the main ridge of the Bernina is decidedly snubbed by mountaineers. Peaks that reach 4000 meters and are mostly uphill for their northern slopes (Swiss): the Roseg from Eselgrat or the North, the Scerscen by Naso, the same Bernina from Biancograt, Argent and Zupò skis from Morteratsch, the Palu ... However, the Italian side gives a rundown of interesting ways, rewarding and not particularly difficult or dangerous, if caught at the right time. In the last three years have me focused, with different partners, on these streets "getting" a poker unforgettable gifts. The piling of poles ablatometriche of Glaciology Lombardo Service in 2008 3500 to m on Fellaria Glacier leads me to be "forced" visit to this side with an annual periodicity. And why not join every time a trip to the mountains? For choice of the period in favor of the slope "hot" (best-freeze, lower heat and danger of shock and sudden transformation of new snow in the sun) that for the reduced presence of crowds, I have always served and only dell'invernale of Marinelli or bivouacs Pansera Parravicini and in the autumn.
For other trips back to the initial report linked list.

Fourcla d'Argient: Gully Folatti, 500m / 50 ° (70 ° output, according to the line) / D

Thanks to Teo and James for the photo

Friday afternoon with Mara and Roby (Poz) go up in 2h45 to Rifugio Marinelli, closed for a week. We already know his bell'invernale. We may even find in it two cans of water, bread, a barattolone of yogurt (which will not touch ;-)) And jam. And the excellent stove that we use just to warm up a little the environment (and the sausage ;-)) Having regard to this little wood. For our Oktober fest could not miss beer and sausages ;-) followed by risotto and sweet ;-) The afternoon was not very clear and we have threatened to take a little 'of water going to the shelter with a temperature anything but summer ... is now autumn. In the evening, however, the horizon begins to brighten, and bodes well for the next day. It is in fact an excellent Starry that we reach the Passo Marinelli Western, and we go down on the top Scerscen glacier. Initially there is little snow and walk on bare ice. To the attack of the Gully Folatti but the snow is covered by a layer of debris that the wind gets up and pushes uncomfortably in his eyes: remnant of a recent landslide from Cresta Guzza. It's still dark. Siam arrived earlier than expected here. However, we can imagine our white line between the massive walls of the Cresta Guzza and Argent. Some rocks falling from above we initially raises doubts about the safety, but verify be small rocks that are detached from a side wall of ice crusted, shortly after outside our line. Overcome without problems the crevasse, climb the snow of excellent carrier for two-thirds of the channel and reaches the light. The environment is top notch and behind us also lights up the scenery. Begins the ice and begin to proceed in protected preserves. Above us the wall of overhanging serac summit. Moving left on spaccoso ice and marble we take a line of snow and soft ice melting / refreezing of the snow: a pleasure! Without stopping at the side, near the rocks, we go for a casting with Saltini to 70 ° with beautiful ice "cauliflowers" and snow. We go to the hill to 9 and the wind, which was almost absent in the channel, we invest. The temperature is anything but mild. To the right we climb the frozen Dossone leading to the plateau below the Piz Argent. We leave our backpacks and the sharp ridge to the summit. sublime and strong wind Panorama. Just enough time for a few photos and down to backpacks. We cross now under Bellaviste intercepting a great track and some hikers directed latecomer to the Bernina (mah!). At 12: 30 we cross the Col Bellavista and we go down on the Fellaria Glacier. After a survey of the snow thickness (40 cm above a layer of impenetrable firn) intercept the pole SGL (which we have driven here in 2008) to share 3450 under the bivouac Pansera. Emerge 73 cm (in 20 snow): not bad! We exclude rapidly the initial idea to get off the ice after falling into a crepo covered which you can not see the bottom. We continue for a bastion of rocks initially looking much more difficult, which avevam rose in 2008, and offering fun climbing (II) backwards. Meanwhile, time is getting worse as forecast, but it is "only" a long (7,5 km !!!) down to the Refuge Bignami and Campo Moro, where we arrive at 18.
Thank you to the members who have followed me even in this latest sweep. And thanks to Roby for a trip that finally we have been able to share. Gita full and exciting day. And next on this side? Well to do quintet there is still an "unprecedented" attractive line ahead ... we pazientiamo a year and you are back!

Towards the Marinelli, check the Folatti left

What remains of the hanging glacier of Caspoggio

Magical sunset on Accident

Here it is (far better conditions of 2012 !!!)

hidden peaks ... but clearly visible channel.

Within

Ambientone

Opa Franza Style

Start the ice

Marble ...

Towards the "gully"



fun

Glimpse between walls

Godooooo

Brava Mara photographer

outgoing fun

End of transmission

venghino lords

Go Robyyyyy

The looming seracs

His Majesty Pizzo Bello

Bernina

sky Argientato

Pastel Colours

Let him travel backpack to the summit

Wall

"Photo" peak

Iceberg at Eastern Fellaria

roseg

On the crossing of Bellaviste

Piz Spinas (or Western Palu)

glacial immensity

Under the Zupò

The other side dell'Argient

Pole ablatometriche SGL, Fellaria glacier, 3450m
(73 cm emergence, of 20 cm of snow. Last year it emerged the 93 37 + cm)
So 93 130 vs ... a little something (firn or ice?) Gained ...

Downhill rocciatoria variant
Last Modified: 01 / 10 / 2013 07: 18 from Franz Rota Nodari.

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04 / 10 / 2013 17: 47 #1336 da Raffaele Morandini
Uela what luxury! "Two birds with one stone!" Work and climbing, how to say, duty and pleasure.

First congratulations, I know the channel - view - and I must say that it takes courage to slip inside. The 70 ° in the final must have been tough. The season is the right choice for this area ... as rightly say, at this time it is safer and then, which is far from negligible, with no one around and the pleasure of being in the bivouacs.

A curiosity, where did you take the first photo, the one with the whole mountain range on which the paths are traced? Years ago I had taken an identical from the top of Corno Mara (m 2809), above Sondrio.

Still good, and good luck for the next line to be drawn in the area.

Raffaele

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11 / 10 / 2013 13: 37 #1339 da Franz Rota Nodari

Raffaele Morandini wrote: First of all congratulations, I know the channel - the view - and I must say that it takes courage to slip inside. The 70 ° in the final must have been tough. The season is the right choice for this area ... as rightly say, at this time it is safer and then, which is far from negligible, with no one around and the pleasure of being in the bivouacs.
A curiosity, where did you take the first photo, the one with the whole mountain range on which the paths are traced? Years ago I had taken an identical from the top of Corno Mara (m 2809), above Sondrio.
Still good, and good luck for the next line to be drawn in the area.
Raffaele

Hello Raffaele
70 the final grades were not very tough for the type of ice found: soft and "cauliflower" for comfortable support.
We say very lucky because as you know the ice serac is usually hard and spaccoso.
Far more "stubborn" the stretch before smooth ice, hard and spaccoso, but only for 50m. First just snow.

instead different speech for the direct ascent of the serac which would have been a bell'ingaggio ... not for the slope (even for charity), but for the type of ice.

Quite different situation last year during the same period (when we have climbed Bernina ) Where there was a single slab of ice ...
It takes a little 'c ... franziano occasionally ;-)

The photo was taken by a amico on-ice from the Orobie to September 2012 I seem to remember from Vallocci area nearby Foppolo.

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