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TOPIC: LYSKAMM wall N: in the footsteps of Neruda and Klucker

LYSKAMM wall N: in the footsteps of Neruda and Klucker 22/07/2014 12:16 #1381

Lyskamm Eastern, 4527m: NNE wall (var. De Benedetti, right rib) 800m (development 1000m) / 55 ° / D [/ B] [/ color]

(Photo by Elia Monica)

Were the 2. We walked briskly toward the wall. The pitch black it allowed us not to see that the radius of our headlamps. Suddenly he sprang from the crest of the moon was going to illuminate our own wall. We are now under it. We can not "run away" ... It appears majestic and grim. Overly large compared to our small steps. So many thoughts in my head. A melody that I heard these days is repeated insistently. Thoughts are at home ... to my little girl. Meanwhile, the wall comes up and you see the seracs increasingly large and menacing. Doubts about the conditions, the safest course to take note to the dreaded seracs .. scratch away the attack. We cross a field of snow dotted with huge blocks of ice. No one dares to say anything, but we know where they come from ... In my head by now the thought is only one: "I want to be anywhere but here" ... Only when the pikes and the tips of his boots sink into perfect soft snow with rhythmic and regular rhythm, and when it ups the dawn surprises us ... only then, I am sure to be exactly where I want to ...

The July 18 1890 Ludwig Normann-Neruda and Christian Klucker tracked down with great insight the way of Gorgias on NE Bernina wall. The 9 August of that year traveled the wall rib N Lyskamm, making a climb that to that time, became epochal. We, too, in their footsteps, we climbed the first Gorgias to Bernina and after one month only the north wall of the Lyskamm. I must admit that this wall has never entered insistently in my climbing plans. Not because it is a beautiful and majestic wall, as pertaining to one of the most beautiful in the Alps, but for the monotonous route, that if in good condition, provides a monotonous progression and adjust on an open and uniform slip. In hindsight of course I abhor positive especially for the magnificent setting in which it takes place, wild and isolated, despite the proximity to overly popular routes. That's how by chance, looking for a route for the weekend, I take at the chance after seeing a recent photo on the Internet that showed in excellent condition.

Anticipating the disturbance, Friday we are with Mara Luisa, Sunsets & Roby in Gressoney. Dell'Indren from the cable car going up on a gorgeous day at the bivouac at the Jordan Balmenhorn. When we arrive there are only two Swiss. The afternoon passes for me and Mara going to track and view access to the wall by Grenzgletscher. Luisa and Roby make a trip to the Black Horn. The wall, we are told by Beppe met uphill and already known to weissmies , It was dropped by two skiers both right and left rib: Good conditions, even if the observation from a distance appears to show Ice centrally. Beppe same has not addressed by only because of these hypothetical plates of ice. Return, the camp is full and you have to get organized for dinner and the night, moving the table occupying the room. Luckily the stench of piss that pervaded the camp once is enough now confined to the entrance hall, although it is not exactly a healthy environment ... even here the doubts about being "in the right place at the right time" are insistently ...
At one o'clock we leave the "barn". To 3 we are ready to go to the base of the wall. The crevasse is passed easily, but on a bridge that will be short lived. Throughout the first half is on soft and packed snow where crampons and bite spades with ease. It is going well. Once at the base of the rocky ridge that characterizes the wall (and which is crossed by the now obsolete and uncomfortable Normann-Neruda / Klucker) bend right. It is not the classic Welzenbach, but a variant with similar characteristics. Previously traveled in the climb, it was skiing for the first time in 1983 by the great De Benedetti. The route choice is dictated by the safety factor here, as opposed to the left side, there are no crevasses on the head, and this is not a subtlety ... also exposed it seemed in better condition. And both of these reasons will prove justified. More or less half the wall we stop and we lose half an hour leaning to the outcrop rocks. From here on, it takes the sun and the snow gets deeper, always very compact, but more laborious. Also if we protected easily before every thirty meters, here we go unprotected, but the spade come well (in this condition the way it is AD + / D - !!!). Sunsets and Luisa take up and draw the largest output. In the summit at about 9 we are obviously very pleased. We just have the descent, which, despite being in very good condition, still gives a pretty exciting crossing the ridge. 12 to the cable car, when the sky is now covering ominously, we can begin to capture the beauty of the finished. Thanks once again to the members.

Here are the pictures:

... Towards the ridge of Lyskamm

The Vincent Giordano from the bivouac to Balmenhorn

The valley of Grenzgletscher with the majestic wall of Lyskamm, going to track the approach and see the way

Cresta (downhill) and wall of the Eastern Lyskamm

Parade of seracs. With our line.

Alps or Hymalaya?

Return to the Balmenhorn spur

Not sure we will enter the Guinness Book of Records, but there is a good beer! (And reintegrates well salts lost !!!)

Restyling of the room for the night

Comes the light: WOW !!!

The first half with excellent snow

Stop at the spur of the rocks. The only ice "tried"

Go Albe!

skiable snow


Behind us the void!

The stretch near the rocks that we thought critical ... but good

We do not want mica the moon!


Seracs at a safe distance. Gorner, OberG, Zinal, Weisshorn

Behind the Grenzgletscher and its crevasses


(De) Blessed are the dead bodies!

The top

Parrot on the sea

peak pictures

The crest aesthetic descent East

The tower summit


Towards the Parrot


... The sharp spade (for the next outing!)

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