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TOPIC: Obergabelhorn: a north that remains in the Heart

Obergabelhorn: a north that remains in the Heart 08/07/2015 14:07 #1435

Obergabelhorn, 4063m:

↑ North Face 1100m / D / 55 ° - ↓ Arete du Cœur (integral): 1100m / D- / 50 ° [/color]

Have passed well 6 years (September 2009) from which we walked with Mara crossing Arbengrat - Wellenkuppe . It was also our second outing together and from then on we would have made every ... Even then, however dell'Obergabelhorn I was fascinated by its north face. An elegant slide, perfect, inviting. Some compare all'Alpamayo or Ama Dablam ... A complex and non-trivial climb, especially for the descent, if not made by the other side (but logistically impossible). Also l ' "approach" to the wall is a journey to self: the climb is in fact made up of two separate walls with virtually autonomous identity. A long climb 1500 meters from the glacier floor. Already I had been to the Grand Mountet Hut with Denis for SN crossing the Zinalrothorn . I had promised myself never to come back for that long access "spaccagambe" ... but I knew that I would return fascinated by the wonderful wall.

In 2011 with Denis at Zinalrothorn, you could not help but be fascinated. All we had to wait for the right time ...

But he had to find it in optimum condition for not having the edge of bankruptcy ;-) Conditions which arise quite regularly earlier in the season. And when the idea makes its way into my sights for the weekend (27-28 June) arrive on time the optimum conditions report. You go!
Said-done: it's me, Mara, Sunsets and Anna (still partially recovering from his knee) to climb the long valley of Zinal Saturday morning. A few drops of rain refreshes us. Arrived at the shelter, even as we're having dinner out the storm breaks. But not last long and we may make two steps to go see the dell'indomani itinerary. The doubts are related to the first part of the wall that has discovered the ice (we identify a snow tongue ribattezzeremo jokingly "fish") and the descent. Usually following the sharp first snowy stretch of the Cresta del Cuore (Arete du Cœur), and then turns on the side of the north (east), making a sideways (that goes affrntato in safe conditions) and past the rocky part of the ridge, go a feature snowy ledge.
After a bit 'of indecision in the scree at the base of the wall (strangely the cairns disappear), attach the wall which is still dark. Proceed well, and instead of making a long traverse on snow as the other climbers, we follow a direct line that has a shot of ice, but very good and soft. At the central plateau in a magnificent setting welcomes us the sun and take a break. It compares the final slide that characterizes our mountain. Magnificent! It seems in exceptional condition. Already 3 cartels are engaged (they exceeded the base), but the track is so evident and comfortable in the snow, which does not seem to be all that commitment ... After passing smoothly the end, we start the steady climb, putting only few screws canned ice that you feel under the tips. The summit is studded by a strong wind and will remain little. Because the descent is long and will keep us in tension until the end. The first part of the crest of the heart is scenic and exciting. The snow and tracks make it perfect but surmountable without problems. At the junction where you should get off on the east side, the now cooked snow does not inspire me. so we opt for the direct descent on the "thread" of ridge is more a hillside interspersed by canals. The snow is still hard, indeed, perhaps too much, you have to work backwards with caution because even ice traits. It is long. 500 meters are on tiptoe, but absolutely secure. The ledge then row away fast and we're already behind. Once at the shelter beer and footbath bask in the sun are a great fitting end and a bit 'of relaxation for the feet. Just a bit 'of concern for members that are not seen on the horizon. Mara starts. I wait. After two hour will find out that Anna has gritted my teeth for the knee and torn fingernails from boots for the long descent always on the tips: great! Retrieved the car keys, also I leave to them the time of well-deserved beer and childbirth I also for the eternal descent towards Zinal where now I will arrive in the dark. Alone with my thoughts. Beautiful thoughts on this additional dream realized. Meeting ibex, deer, partridges, ... Only a short rest in the parking lot lawn awaits us ... But the next day the alarm rings early and 9: 30 are already in Milan in the office, even if the attention will be diverted from time to time by intense emotions it lived a few hours before ... Thank you once again to the members with whom it was possible to realize this dream!
(Ascent of 27-28 June)

A video mix (images and video with GOPRO) here:

Here are the pictures:

Panorama DOC coming to Grand Mountet Hut

Ober B & W

Testing the crocs of the shelter on the moraine ;-)

Lights and shadows of the heart ...

The moon illuminates our goal

first wall

Off the ice stretch towards the "fish" ...

His Majesty the Tooth White

Dent Blanche and Grand Cornier

Magnificent perfect triangle

Lost in ice

Obergabelhorn or Alpamayo?

The crevasse

in wall

The gorgeous Gabriella photo that shows us engaged in the wall. Thank you!

Very good conditions!

Peeps Zinal Red Horn

The Arete du Cœur scenic

Friends their heels ...

Magic Zinalrothorn ... with his beautiful South ridge of which I fell in love right from here

Toward the exit

Here I am

Peak !!!!!!

The crest of the Heart

Sunrises and Anna smiling ...

Matterhorn and Dent d'Herens

Heart of cream...



On top of the world


Panorama on the valley

The Arete du Cœur "direct". Snow rocking.

Always exposed, always with exceptional view of the DB

The characteristic snowy ledge

Light and heavy games on the scenic ridge

Back to the refuge ...

If this does not seem Hymalaya?

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Last modified: by Franz Rota Nodari.

Obergabelhorn: a north that remains in the Heart 23/08/2015 21:52 #1443

beautiful photos of the ridge with the profile of a man with snow between sun and shade

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Obergabelhorn: a north that remains in the Heart 26/08/2015 11:52 #1444

Nothing short of stunning photos (DIA) to send me by his comparison Vareno Boreatti dating back to 21 September 1969 !!!

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Last modified: by Franz Rota Nodari.
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