25/02/2016 13:13 #1448 da Bruno Bonfanti
Hello to all,
I groped the ascent to this summit next summer from Flüealp refuge.
Does anyone have information about, type and timing differences in level 1 and 2 day, any difficulties before arriving at the reunion with the other climbing routes?
Thanks and greetings to all.
Bruno Bonfanti

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29/02/2016 10:32 #1449 da Flavio melindo
With his usual kindness and jurisdiction meets our partner and Mountain Guide Pier Mattiel, who on other occasions has served as an advisor to the Club 4000. We thank him for his willingness also on behalf of all members.

In my opinion the best and also the most natural, to walk up (meaning without skis) the Rimpfischhorn (4199 mt.) Is precisely the route from Zermatt, passing by the Flue (2618 mt.).
The path from Täschhütte (2701 mt.), Ideal for late spring to the use of the skis, so does not lend itself well to the foot, shows a total biggest drop (1 ° gg + mt 500. 2 + ° days. Least 1600. ..) but especially a little less is longer and with a few ups and downs, a more complicated glacier (very late in the season) and a long traverse of the glacier above the back, if done in skiing is pleasant, walk.

The route from the Britannia Hut (3030 mt.), Through the Allalinpass, the three is definitely the fastest, at least in skiing, because it has the lowest altitude, although in terms of kilometers is longer than the others; in fact it's all through, with two latches (one right away from the hut and one on 'Allalinpass) that ski removing and putting the skins is fine, but not is boring ..... In my opinion, the end of the fair less interesting than the other two; and the only reason to rise from Britanniahütte is to follow the north ridge (which I personally do not consider it so important in the panorama of Alpine 4000)

Last but not least, the private retreat Berghaus Flue, (does not belong to the network of Swiss CAS), it is much more pleasant than the two mentioned above.

The Berghaus Flue can be reached from Zermatt, through the implantation of the Sunnegga Express (a sort of underground rack) plus a chair lift to Blauherd, where a quiet walk on the flat of the path / lane to limit yourself pastures, passing Stellisee the lake (that of classic photos from the northeast to the Matterhorn). 20 min.

From the shelter of (at night) to the east, for flat trail or so steep that runs along the creek. In short, almost abruptly, the trail climbs to a steep grassy slope rapidly taking share, the grass gives way to the stony ground, the trench becomes less and less clear, coming to what I believe is the only real difficulty or rather unknown , the climb ..... especially moonless, or at least a very dark night. Around 3000 mt. We have to stop climbing and bend sharply to the right, crossing a wide area with very large blocks, whose route is not at all obvious, until you get into a kind of hollow, even stony, but less steep and smaller chunks, to Now it starts to climb up to the ground strikes, the detritus you order and it becomes easy to walk, from which you will soon reach the collar of Pfulwe 3155 mt., located on the left (direction) of the peak. (I guess that make sideways in large blocks at the right point, it is important, even if sincerely seeing by day and from below you would say that you pass also, of course with some complications / danger in more, (quite steep terrain, the more unstable rocks ) but because despite having traveled the route several times I always guessed, I have no direct experience, they are also aware of several cartels, which in error followed have had to give up and turn back, for so advise us a lot caution....)

At this point with the help of light the route becomes evident. Collared it surrounds the top Pfulwe, first for debris, and then enter the glacier, then pulls to the right to gain the wide ridge that descends from Rimpfischsattel. (This section is more or less comfortable depending on the snow, when it is very dry we find a lot of ice and stone, and with good snow cover is a gentle slope to climb without crampons) Reached the ridge follow it first alternating snow rocks, without any difficulty, the higher becomes completely ice age (Langfluegletscher) to continue to follow as far narrows to form a more or less based on the detrital ridge of snow present, this ridge it can take at the lowest point ( if well snowy), or no set course continue to stand up for the glacier to his right and then add it again later. Then climb it with no apparent difficulties, towards the end becomes rocky with some easy step climbing, past which, a short snowy slope leads on the large snowy dome to 4009 mt. With short descent you reach the Rimpfischsattel, in common with other routes above, where the track is generally beaten. First it climbs a snow channel to the point where it becomes obvious bend to the left and upward journey through the rocks and / or mixed achieve and step over one shoulder. Continue broken rocks along the ridge, or if in good condition, up the steep snowy slope on his left fin against a steeper wall, which can be overcome with a few more steps technical climbing, beyond which even a short, steep snowy slope (if in good condition, otherwise you are on the rocks) in ascending traverse to the left leads sull'anticima, from which air on the summit ridge. This last part is technically a little more difficult, usually it appears more complicated than it is in reality, also considering that ultimately are barely 200 mt. in altitude.

Times: from Flue to Rimpfischsattel, the hill where the itineraries are joined, are 1400 mt. always fairly regular, with very short technical sections of uphill climb, which I suppose 5 hours are more than enough (if you do not make mistakes path course ..) The final part with its 200 mt. positive and continuous technical passages requires a good hour (prepared climbers of course).

Pier Mattiel

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03/08/2016 18:56 #1459 da Massimiliano Patti
I might add an info, if by any chance happen to make mistakes like I did ..

I managed to climb the Rimpfischorn around September 2012 (if I remember correctly : Dry: ). I arrived too early at the collar Pfulwe and there, even at night, by mistake, following the track of a path are unfortunately climbed on top of this.
Fortunately, from the top of pfulwe we manage to get off, even through a fixed rope you 'pardoning error' and allows you to gain the glacier .. And 'cmq was a mistake that made us lose time, but at least we are not one had to go back to the tour rifar B)

Anyway it was nice longish : Unsure: ... It was the year in which recuperavo from an operation on a cruciate ... We lost the last downhill facility, and we touched the trek to Zermatt B)

Anyway, I remember it as one of the most beautiful tour :)

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