Antelao, the King of the Dolomites

More
04 / 09 / 2016 23: 27 #1465 da Raffaele Morandini
Rose Antelao, which with its 3264 meters above sea level is nicknamed the "King of the Dolomites". In fact, after the two tips of Marmaloda (Penia and Rocca) it is the third highest peak of the "Pale Mountains".

Following two landslides of 2014 and 2015 which also caused victims, this mountain was the subject of ordinances that prohibited the climb. In fact, in addition to having wiped out the bivouac So (which was located just below the summit) the two mega-landslides had also canceled part of the normal route.

Some info about landslides:
www.caiveneto.it/news.asp?ua=439

www.caiveneto.it/upld%5C0N%5Cwcms_f/alle...eri%20Antelao.oj.pdf

www.caipadova.it/fileadmin/user_upload/c...osi..._distrutto.pdf

This year there have been no orders, but the situation is still very precarious. Currently the Mountain Guides of Cortina d'Ampezzo not accompany Antelao.

Before the landslide Via Normale was evaluated PD +, the card here: www.vienormali.it/montagna/cima_scheda.asp?cod=63

Now, after we climbed, I can say that the ascension has become a bit 'more difficult, as well as "dangerous."
In practice, the collapsed material is partially stopped on the famous "Laste" (rocky plates that were covered in the Normal Route). In particular on the "Laste" higher there are blocks and stones of all sizes, stopped for whatever spell, ready to fall under the stimulus only fate. Therefore, it must be remembered that the "Laste" superiors are to be avoided (falling rocks and stones with only wind). So you have to take the ridge, but is just as "dirt" of debris (very delicate downhill). At the end of the "Laste" higher alongside the ridge, you must be on the left, facing a treacherous gully (shock hazard!), Then cut over ledges towards the center of the rocky fortress (ice conditions). From here, going up with short stretches of climbing, you move to the right on a thin ledge, slightly sloping and very exposed, then through another groove is reached all'anticima and the summit ridge, then the summit. The problem, however, remains the descent, especially the "Laste" higher, since, on the ridge is impossible not to move material, as well as make sure. In the present conditions it must be firm foothold, safe and light. It should not be anyone along the way, it above, below it.

Needless to say, the view is great ... until the Laguna Veneta!

Good peaks at all.

Raffaele





















-

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
13 / 09 / 2016 14: 32 - 13 / 09 / 2016 14: 32 #1469 da Franz Rota Nodari
soooo interesting information. Unfortunately.
In fact this year the Antelao have done many times on skis. Maybe the snow is more stable ... but it is still a bit 'too risky, maybe ...
I'd like to climb its stairs from years gully Oppel , You probably know ...




Still on the subject Dolomites, I propose a way which I strongly recommend, that you like the routes a little 'out of the ordinary, made a month ago ... The ledge Grohmann to Pelmo
Last Modified: 13 / 09 / 2016 14: 32 from Franz Rota Nodari.

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
17 / 09 / 2016 22: 13 #1476 da Raffaele Morandini
In the winter I think there is no problem ... everything is under the snow. It will be just the avalanche - for years - that will clean the "Laste", maybe.

Pelmo is wonderful, I think one of the most beautiful mountains in the Dolomites, for aesthetics is "sublime" and the environment. I went up last year with the snow! I'll put some pictures below.


















I can not help commenting on the beautiful family photos that you've posted in the forum On Ice - Pelmo - of which I have put the link. The photos 26 years ago testifies to your relationship with the mountain, which can be inferred directly from DNA, because the parents. Therefore no wonder your level in mountaineering.

good mountain

Raffaele

Please Log in to join the conversation.

More
19 / 09 / 2016 11: 08 #1477 da Franz Rota Nodari

Raffaele Morandini wrote: The Pelmo is wonderful, I think one of the most beautiful mountains in the Dolomites, for aesthetics is "sublime" and the environment. I went up last year with the snow! I'll put some pictures below.

Strabello!
In winter the Dolomites are even more beautiful. It will be for the loneliness ... cmq And there is a world of channels and gully "unexplored". No kidding. Needless to be told that his place go there and not tell. It 's the approach from "Western" is missing ...

Raffaele Morandini wrote: I can not fail to comment on the beautiful family photos that you've posted in the forum On Ice - Pelmo - of which I have put the link. The photos 26 years ago testifies to your relationship with the mountain, which can be inferred directly from DNA, because the parents. Therefore no wonder your level in mountaineering.
good mountain
Raffaele

Justments .... son of art are ;-)

Please Log in to join the conversation.

Time to create page: 0.463 seconds
Powered by Kunena Forum