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TOPIC: Bietschhorn 3900s do it better!

Bietschhorn 3900s do it better! 13/09/2016 14:53 #1472

Bietschhorn, 3934 m: crossing East spur ---> N ridge by Baltschiederklause - 600m / D- / IV + (4b)


In purple climb from East spur. In descent the crest N. Superb pictures of Gio
Those passing by the Simplon Pass has not remained fascinated and impressed at least once by that mighty granite piramidone that towers throughout the first part of the descent to Brig? After years that we admired him, we could not to desire the ascent. With Mara we take the opportunity of a perfect weekend at the end of this beautiful summer. For the ascent, originally intended for crossing from Baltschiederklause for N ridge and down the ridge to the W Bietschhornhutte in Loetschental, we are intrigued by the East Spur, which seems to be a very rewarding climb. Even rifugista the phone speaks of conditions "tip-top" of the spur (a little 'less than the N ridge, as recommended two spades !!!).
The Oberland guide to Les Swindin Alpin's British Club says:
"The rib Provides a very direct route to the summit from the hut. Nowhere is the climbing very difficult but it is fairly sustained on quite good rock and requires a positive attitude. 7-8h ".
Well, it seems interesting and our attitude is the right one!


The final part (very end) of the climb to the hut in green and the East spur. In the beautiful photos of Jean-louis

Once in Ausserberg, the machine for transit / parking lot to the street to eat there Choruderri 10 Fr giving us one day pass, but a sympathetic villager came spontaneously "to the rescue" goes directly to the town hall to get us the complete pass and redemption. Good start. We will only have confirmation about the friendliness of the locals ... the face that are sFizzeri! Once at the park we decided to take the tunnel 1,6 the return leg and the outer path that follows the beautiful ledges overlooking the valley along an irrigation canal and with some stretch equipped with cords. Arrived near the huts Senntum the atmosphere is just bucolic and lunch nicely. It only does so much heat. We continue long into the valley before taking share more decisively. It continues to rise and turn sides, but the signs give the increasingly distant hut. And above all we do not see it until the end, when slightly downhill you enter the valley under the glacier. From here also appears tomorrow's destination. After something like 17 and 1500 km m of altitude we reach the hut, where Jolanda welcomes us with a cup of tea !!! It 's already time for dinner (discrete). It seems that in some particular weekend (listed on the website) is also an aperitif before dinner and some even practiced a discount on half board! The gentle rifugista (speaks German and French and a little Italian, but tries) after dinner sitting at the tables for time arrangements breakfast and ask for their plans. Robe of the past ... Our breakfast is the first and thus "not served", but Jolanda leaves us on a slate table with decorations with colored chalk and wrote "A good beautiful day" (in Italian!), But where are we? ?? We 15! Let's say, it will be because it is Friday, but the next day will be 20 guests. That they are all in Torino, the Gnifetti, or Gouter to crowd the normal of 4000? Ah, yes, the "sin" of this place is that the beast there is high "only" 3934 meters !!!

A mental limitation, a convention (in America, for example, by measuring the mountains in feet, the 4000 share does not exist, but you count the 14000 feet - the so-called Fourteeners - the Rockies, who are peaks higher than 4267 m !!!) ; such "prejudice" has, however, its roots in the past (which shows the retrograde character and nostalgic):

It is said that Captain Edmund von Luge, Swiss topographer, guest of a hotel in the area, in love with Rosa Ebner, and daughter of the the most beautiful girl of the valley, to curry favor with his father and get his daughter's hand in order to prevent the Lotschental was overlooked by climbers and tourists, he had hidden the Topographical Bureau in Bern that the share of the Bietschhorn, the 4003 meters of precedent cards was lowered by well 69 meters. Other surveyors would later correct "the inexplicable" error, until, just in 1969, the truth came to light, when it was opened a sealed envelope on which Rosa had written "to open a hundred years after my death." (Source: "The real share of Bietschhorn", by A. Paleari, CDA, Torino, 1989)

Leafing through the book of the refuge we note that we are the first and only Italian guests and also in the 2016 2015 had stopped only roped! Who knows why it is so boycotted? Perhaps because the scale of Turin is shorter ??? While we think that we are on the terrace to taste us the sunset and get an ibex licking the salt left by Jolanda (the think its all to delight guests !!!) and to be photographed.

The glacier you come up with a sideways facing (some chain), but well marked with reflective signs. Careful just the last stretch where signs give way to omit a little 'sparse. The glacier is initially quite crevassed, but being dry is passed easily. Crossing diagonally to the spur instead begins the snow and some nice bucone covered bell should be passed carefully. The last slope reaches 50 / 60 degrees, but with great snow. We have two spades, because recommended for the descent from rifugista, and proceed well. We come on the shoulder at about 3300 meters (evident from the shelter because it is the only flat part of the ridge) just right that is clearing. Two parties pass us in the sprint. there peniamo. We continue at our own pace, protecting where we consider it appropriate. The first 150 meters are grade II and go untied. There are traces of the path and go up, but the rock is not the best, then you can try Saltini, dihedral and plates (II) with more rock solid staying a bit 'right and a bit' to the left. When the sun on the crest (is exposed to full South) bind ourselves and change log uphill: the rock becomes excellent, compact and massive blocks. Go past ridges astride, plaques, sharp crests. Will 400 meters of IV with a shot of IV + (not supported) and are present in total 2 bolts, nails and 3 1 Wood taproot. It protects very well with friends of all measures and lanyards. We have always pursued with 30 rope (a 60 mezzata) by just a couple of shots. The last section is a long spigolotto regular slope, very exposed, with good rock. At the end of this one hundred meters they are on softer ground and rock a little 'dirty, but even here you can find their own way out of the most smooth and clean plates, but still easy (II-III). It should then be tried as soon as you can move left and take the towers of the edge that offer a slower climbing, but safer for other 150 meters. Who wrote that here everything moves ... must come Orobie ;-) . We are at the top in the times read on the guide (the rifugista had underestimated a bit '... simply the approach: 1h30 !!!), the day the space but we know that we can not relax.

The descent is the most challenging part. An endless series of towers, plaques, crossings is a continuation. There is always moving on solid rock although it seems apparently a series of stacked boulders. Help are the innumerable signs of crampons indicating solid steps. We carry two small double (equipped / advisable) to get down from the unique towers taller and with spit. Once at 3706 share to the left comes off the west ridge leading to Bietschhornhutte and it looks to the rock gear (as indicated by the various reports). still we continue for long blocks and meet the snowy ridge (2h from the top). However there is little snow and rests on ice. We left on a ledge of rocks descending parallel to the wire, but it turns bad choice for instability ... was also predictable. Calziamo crampons, sfoderiamo screws and spades. delicate and precarious descent. We believe the correct and safest precede preserved protected ... At some point we find the ridge an ice ax abandoned expanse ... where will the owner (at the bottom of the slope 300 meters below a backpack as well ...) ???

[Only discover days later that they belonged to a pair of young people in Switzerland, which also sat at our dinner table ;-(, they had to cross to the Bietschhornhutte, but had rushed uphill from there ... A thought to them and so much sadness ... RIP].


We come back on debris and descending to a crest of blocks. The alternative is the black ice-soaked debris: brrrrr. But the blocks move and rest on smooth slabs. Double! Here I see a rope, but it is on a spike that does not inspire confidence. We leave one elsewhere. Here's another one now. While I'm down Mara me to stop screaming !!! around the block moves. Date back. Re-equipping another double, but scago. Now sharp ridge of snow gear. It follows a series of cliffs sentierate and unstable (the little man on the mid-ridge turn left!), But it goes down well (strictly without rope) and we are at the end of the rock. equipped double that settles right on a black mixed ice crevice between the mud and debris. Brrrrrr that bad place, but we are almost out. The glacier is now well covered with snow, and soon we are out and the hut. It's too late, however, to go down the 4h that separate us from the car and do the same long journey. We decide to take it easy and sleep here. Jolanda welcomes us with a nice beer then it gives us to be arrived safely. The kindness "abound" in this valley! ;-) The next day we savor the descent with the end of the tunnel (required front) and with the long journey we are at home.

What to say? Another dream pursued and crowned. A super mountain aesthetic as the ascent route. A superlative hospitality. A place snubbed by many. In short, an unforgettable trip with my best partner!
A little 'bitter taste in the mouth, however, we are left at the end to two young mountain climbers who wanted him ... the mountain gives much, but sometimes it takes time ...

full report on onyx

Here some pictures, enjoy!


Here's how the piramidone the Bietschhorn and its East spur from Sempione: no one can not remain fascinated!




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Last modified: by Franz Rota Nodari.

Bietschhorn 3900s do it better! 17/09/2016 21:11 #1473

Hello Franz,

Congratulations for the very good top!
Very true what you say about the glance from the Simplon Pass .... how many times I ammiranto the Bietschhorn, thinking of the possible ascents. The shape, moreover, does not mind the difficulties ... and by thy great pictures I'd say "no mind" even the summit, pointed!

This picture I have taken at dawn from Mount Leone ... to the appeal confirms that this beautiful summit exercises.



The 4000 have their charm, but some 3000 have the added value of "loneliness" .... thankfully.

Raffaele
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Thank You: Franz Rota Nodari

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