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TOPIC: For certain climbs it takes NOSE [the LYSKAMM]

For certain climbs it takes NOSE [the LYSKAMM] 19/09/2016 15:16 #1478

Nose of Lyskamm, 4272m: South ridge
AD + / III + / IV / dsl.tot .: 2400m / svil.cresta 3000m
Overnight Bivouac Mamo Comotti, 3550 m
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The climb from the ridge south of the Naso del Lyskamm in green. In red the position of Bivouac Mamo Comotti. In blue the descent to Indren. From: www.monterosa-ski.com/wp-content/uploads/ESTATE2015.pdf

After years of assiduous enough of the peaks of Monte Rosa: are relatively close, physically demanding because of the presence of the plant, allowing linkages, ... in short, they are ideal for those who want to approach the high altitude and also do some more interesting path (like the Cresta del Soldato, the crossing or the North of the Lyskamm, or Signal, ...), in short, i said, after years of dating, i had a little 'repulsion to just hear about it ... and the projects that we had we kept the area to send them back, preferring to new areas and / or less busy.


However in 2015 something changes. The ridge that descends from the Lyskamm Nose I had already spotted as elegant and in a stunning setting between the seracs of the Lys glacier and had even flown to work by helicopter so many years ago (2002), but remained a climb excessively long and not easily manageable. In short, there were more comfortable and attractive ...

Then in the summer 2015 a group of friends of the Mamo, created a Foundation decided to put on the spur 3550 meters a beautiful camp and friendly ( www.amicidelmamo.org/il-bivacco/ )
Mamo has left us a winter of almost 7 years ago, precisely on those mountains he loved so much and knew inside out (by passing the holidays) on skis especially, but also in summer. He had in fact gone up a bit 'all the classic routes (Nose, Dufour, crossing the Lyskamm, Sella, Perazzi) .... To skirando time (ex c2c) there was a nice big group. With him I had made good laps in the mountains ... we often teased ... I remember jokingly criticizing my ups and reports as "fight Alp" to Rey ;-)

Definitely he would have appreciated the location of the bivouac, a real eagle's nest. Often this term is overused, but here we are talking about really a very challenging place from access to long and is definitely a great and necessary stopping point.
The bivouac is a bit 'as the character of Mamo: joker and unconventional. I think that while I'm struggling on rock slabs and walls, not knowing where to go, in the fog, without a trace, a sign of passage, a little man, .. I seem to be the victim of a joke when while continuing to rise not seen him yet . The fee is there, but the camp is not seen ... it was a hallucination that seen from the valley floor? But then suddenly there he ticks ... with his sly smile, his flowing hair, his bright eyes ... while TAKAJUUUUUUUUU cries !!!!
From "theflintstones.it": "The bivouac will make it possible to carry out more easily what is considered one of the most demanding climbs to the Eastern Lyskamm (4527 m), ie the integral from Stafal in the valley (1825 m)."

clear detail of the climb made the bivouac Mamo Comotti. Not necessarily the one indicated in the TCI-CAI Buscaini
(From gambeinspalla.org)


Obviously Mara welcomes my proposal with the usual enthusiasm and confidence that characterize our consortium. The week before I ask an outline to Alby's friend Mamo who attended the installation of the bivouac. Him there on that terrace we arrived by helicopter, but the description of the climb knows it well from the stories of friends who have gone there and the old report of the TCI-CAI guide Buscaini. However these are not so many ... in 2015 two ropes, in three 2016 (local mountain guides, by the way!).
On her advice (given that the ford of Lys may be difficult at the top), arrived in Courtlys, after half an hour before departure from Staffal, we cross the Lys with a wooden bridge and start to climb into the jungle rhododendrons, ferns and larch ... looking sporadic traces of the poles marked red ... Every now and then we look and the look alone says: "If we start well, we'll get it ... it will be a long day."

Once in sight of the front of the Lys I get scared to see it unrecognizable from 14 years ago. We try to identify the transition between debris, crevasses, ice packs covered by debris. The land is not easy, but we gain altitude. A waterfall to get over to the right with a smooth and groove plates. Then a traverse on a scree to do it fast under the pull of the seracs. In fact, the track seems far away from the residues to the soil, but when you hear a roar coming from above that we can not put ourselves instinctively to run in the opposite direction (for no real reason ... fortunately). The fact is that come to the famous "outstanding small field" of relationships we pull a sigh of relief. We can make the lunch break. In that place we are. And nearby cable cars continue to churn out people who think that the Rose is only normal ones ..
We go up the small field, a scree, a smooth channel with water (we buy plenty for caricandoci bivouac not cheap), another scree ... We're looking for a channel / ledge slanting from left to right, as per reports. An attempt on the rocks processed over a terminal crevasse in the snow makes us lose an hour ... We get confused with the description. Meanwhile, the weather, which now had to be nice stable, begins to change and are coming from the clouds blacks Sella that envelop us more and more ... We consult the forecasts and seem to own only harmless clouds. We proceed. We aim an oblique ledge that will prove decisive, but also do not believe is the correct street, but we continue step by step hoping to keep going. We arrive at a hill. It follows a ridge. A channel-chimney. Another crestona ... And here buchiamo the clouds and find a beautiful cloudy sky. In short there is also the fantastic camp. After a nap, we are preparing dinner and in bed. We see the lights of the distant valley, but above all, the right and left, the lights of Gnifetti / Mantova, Jordan and Sella ... and thinking that there will be crowding into those huts we enjoy this paradise.
The next day, still in the dark we begin the descent to the breach that is located right after the "panettone" where stands the bivouac: delicate with a little 'verglasse of the night. Being always on the edge or in the vicinity, with some cuts on the right side, we continue longer than the tower in the tower, ramp in the fireplace ... while the sun comes and the day promises to be very good. The crest rears and finally arrive at 10: 30 the base of the snow cap of the nose. Fortunately, access is easy by snow and not steep, but next we have a steep ice cliff. The sky is covering the valley floor and climb fast threatening clouds ... Arrived at the intersection with the track we decide what to do. Behind, the Dufour and the Breithorn are already in the clouds. The Lyskamm still for long. We let down our backpacks and we take all the necessary material to proceed. With a steep slope we crest the summit. The clouds are becoming more threatening. The vision of the saddle ridge, although it is inviting, the desire to continue ... to climb towers, towers diminishes rather suddenly ... by the time you finally shaping up ... Let's go back to backpacks that is already beginning to sleet ... comfortable Descent from the rocky passage of the nose and then in the maze of crevasses we find a trace of a group (viewed from above) that allows us to navigate without going back to the main track. It begins to snow / hail. A beer to Mantua and we are soon to Indren and machine.
The satisfaction for this tour is a lot. A way lost in the midst of crowds of climbers in the queue. A magical camp in a fantastic location. Opportunity to go and revisit old photos and think with a little 'of sadness. A route that should be re-evaluated. A thank you to the friends of Mamo for this work which makes it definitely honor! And I am honored to be able to pass.
It is now too I speak, but I want to say one last word: TAKAJUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU !!!!

The detailed report: www.camptocamp.org/routes/804193/it/naso...bivacco-mamo-comotti

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another perspective
(From touringclub)

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